Remember when the floor in our master closet and vanity area looked like this?
And then we ripped up the carpet to reveal the subfloor and they looked like this?
Well, five hours and $24 later, it looks like this!
Our actual bathroom has tile (where the shower/tub/toilet are), but this is a separate vanity area along with an adjoining master closet – which both had old carpet that we couldn’t live with for one more day. So we yanked it up and decided to have some fun with the subfloor until we’re ready for a full scale renovation down the line (eventually we’d love to knock down the wall that divides the vanity from the rest of the bathroom and retile/renovate them so they’re one big spacious master bathroom).
We briefly debated peel and stick floor tiles or buying a large seagrass rug and cutting it to lay it wall-to-wall in both spaces for this interim step, but we decided that a stenciled and sealed floor (possibly with a few area rugs) will serve us well in the short term without being a whole lot of money/effort that we’ll later end up undoing.
And since our future tiling plans will require us to rip this stuff up and put backer board in its place anyway (you can’t tile over particle board since it’s not a secure base) there’s no harm in slapping some paint on it in the meantime.
My favorite thing about temporary (and affordable!) afternoon updates like this are that you can have a little fun and do something a little bolder than you might do if you were selecting something more permanent (like tiling a floor that you’ll have to live with for a few decades). Oh and don’t mind that vanity, we’re going to either stain it a deep ebony or charcoal tone or paint it a subdued dark color, so it should fit in a lot better with the rest of the tones in the space.
But let’s rewind a little bit (back to when the floors looked like this) and tell you about the process and some of the things we learned along the way.
To prep our subfloor, which is particle board (a very smooth and almost chalky surface) we used wood filler to make the seams between the different particle boards sheets less obvious. There were only three so it went pretty fast. Once dry, we sanded them down. It wasn’t perfect, but it was better.
Then we primed it all with Aqualock water based primer (it was low-VOC but not no-VOC so John got that step done while I was outside playing with Clara). The purpose of the primer was to help the paint grab on for the long haul and block any stains/bleed-through that might occur from painting over such a porous surface like particle board.
For paint, we grabbed two $12 quarts of semi-gloss paint in the new no-VOC Olympic Icon line, matched to two Benjamin Moore colors: Revere Pewter for our base (same as the wall) and Gargoyle (for the darker stencil pattern). For the last few years we’ve mostly stuck with Benjamin Moore paints, but for temporary upgrades it’s nice to save a little money since we’ll be ripping out this floor in a few years and tiling anyway. We didn’t use an outdoor porch and floor paint (as you usually would in this scenario) because they’re all pretty fumey (usually oil-based) we wanted something no-VOC (this one’s for you, fetus) – but we think the combination of a good primer, some semi-gloss paint, and a nice thick coat of sealer will keep them in good shape for the next few years. We’ll definitely report back with photos over time to share how the floor wears.
With the primer dry, we could apply two coats of the base color. Since this was a no-VOC step, I could cut in while John rolled the rest (we just had to be mindful to paint ourselves out of the space). You can see from the picture below that the color matched Revere Pewter on the floor didn’t really turn out to match the real RP color on the walls as we planned (that’s always the risk that you take when you color match one brand to another), but it was still in the same color family, so we didn’t mind. We’re going for some pretty high contrast interest on the floor, but we thought it would stay sophisticated if we kept the palette sort of subdued (especially with a bold navy-ish tone in the bedroom along with a colorful rug/headboard/pillows/etc) so we were just glad they didn’t clash and still felt like they went together, even if they didn’t match perfectly.
Stenciling the floor is SO MUCH EASIER if you have two people on hand to tag team it. I did the office stencil project alone for the most part, and it took forever and I used a method I’d never use again (more on that in a minute) but this time around we both tackled it and it was a much simpler task. Oh and stenciling a floor is even easier than stenciling a wall since you’re not fighting gravity (a few pieces of painter’s tape hold it in place and then you can roll it without worrying it’ll slip down the wall like it might on a vertical surface).
If you’d like to see the rolling in action – with a few live-action tips in the mix – we made this video while applying another stencil to the wall for a book project back in 2011.
Since you usually want your pattern centered in the room, we started our first stencil to be right in the middle of the vanity. Here you can see what a single repeat of the pattern looks like. It’s the Suzani Silk Road stencil from Royal Design Studios. It’s $49, but we had actually ordered it back in 2011 to use for our book (but that project ended up getting cut), so we just had it sitting under the bed in our guest room for a few years, waiting to be used.
But back to that much easier stenciling method that I mentioned before. We learned back when we were shooting that wall-stenciling project for our book that applying a small amount of paint with a foam roller (not too much, or it’ll get gummy/bleedy) results in just as clean of a line as dabbing everything on by hand, which I did when I stenciled the office, and ended up with claw hands and lost 14 hours of my life. This entire thing only took us 5 hours and was SO MUCH EASIER thanks to a small foam roller with a nice thin application of paint. Hallelujah!
Once again, when using a large stencil like this, it’s so much easier with two people. Each stencil has registration marks around the outside that you line up with the previous stencil so you know where to place it, and if you have someone on hand to help you line up the registration marks and slowly lower it down onto the floor (especially when they’re large) you should have a lot less of an issue with smudging, which can happen if you place it and then slide it around to match the registration marks instead of using four hands to slowly lower it into the right place off the bat (one hand for each corner just seems to work best).
This room’s biggest challenge was that so many walls and corners meant lots of partial stencils, which meant lots of stencil bending (it’s made from flexible plastic that bends, but doesn’t crease, easily) and smooshing the roller into tight spots. We kept some spare cardboard handy (i.e. cereal boxes) to protect the wall from getting paint on it when we had to bend the stencil and it would have rested against the baseboard/wall. Between each placement of the stencil, John also held it up with two fingers with the back facing me and I used a folded paper towel to dab off any excess paint on the back so that the next time we placed it no leftover paint was lingering on the back (this can result in sort of a ghosted double outline, so the quick wipe down between each placement really seems worth the time).
When doing a floor you also have to consider your exit route. In a typical square space this is pretty easy to figure out, but there was no logical way for us to both keep an exit clear and be sure we were keeping our pattern straight/centered (we wanted to start in the middle of the vanity and work out from there, so we couldn’t start in the corner of the closet and stencil our way out because things wouldn’t have been centered on the vanity). For that reason, we decided up front that it would be easiest to paint across two days in smaller installments. We did as much as we could easily access the first day, then let those areas dry so we could stand on them to complete some remaining spots. Picture it sort of like a checkerboard… you can do a row, leave a row clear, and do as much of the other row that attaches to something else you have already done as you can – and then walk out using the clear row. The next day, just go back and fill in those missing areas when the surrounding rows are dry so you can stand on them.
After all of the stenciling was done, I used a small craft brush to get into the spots that needed some filling in. Initially I thought I’d touch up the entire perimeter by hand with paint to make it look flush to the wall (the rolling left about a 1/2″ gap)…
… but after stepping back we realized the small gap was so consistent around the room that it almost looked like an intentional border. So rather than risk making it look worse with my by-hand touch ups, we opted to keep it that way. You can see the slight border around the baseboard in the bottom right of this picture:
As our final sealing step, we plan to use SafeCoat Acrylacq (a non-toxic poly that we have loved since my pregnancy with Clara) to seal it to give it even more added protection. So we hope to get that done and report back on how it goes as well as finishing up a few more things in there.
So far even unsealed it has been holding up well for the last few days, and we’re SO much happier to see it when we walk in there to get dressed than we were to stand on that old carpet. And of course we’re psyched to watch our list dwindle down to just two bullets in here (which means I get to do a budget breakdown soon – yeah boyyyy).
remove the carpet paint and hang a larger window-like mirror(more on both of those steps here) paint the trim paint the walls and ceiling replace all of the outlets/light switches(more on all three of those steps here) stencil the floors
- seal the floors and add some better storage solutions to the closet
- paint or stain the vanity, add new hardware to it, and add some built-in shelves to make the empty space under the counter on the right side more functional
Is anyone else stenciling the walls? How about a ceiling or a floor? Or furniture? Do you use a small foam roller or the claw method that I outlined here (for the love of wrist sustainability, USE A ROLLER!).
We didn’t know how many of you guys would be dropping by today with the holiday and all, but we’ve had a sudden burst of indoor activity thanks to rain, rain, and more rain.
Last week we hoped that this post could be a full monty tiled and grouted sunroom reveal, but although we got the tile laid (and even had a chance to rub our faces on it between storms) we haven’t been able to grout it yet. Turns out we need to give it at least three rain-free days to dry out before attempting to grout. So yeah, maybe we’ll have it done by next week. Sigh.
But because we were trapped inside for the last few days, we did make some other progress – like tackling the job of painting our recently de-carpeted master bath & closet. First up was painting the cream trim white (we went with Simply White in semi-gloss, just like the trim in the rest of the house).
Part of me hates to downplay the time that task took by sharing one measly before & after picture to cover that step. It took one coat of primer and two coats of paint (all applied with a brush) and both Sherry and I got in on the action. I primed since that’s not VOC-free like the painting part, and then when that coat dried we both worked our way around the room’s copious doorways and little areas of baseboard with the paint. Then the cutting in part of the wall-painting process came along and made the trim-work look like child’s play. So. Many. Angles.
Please allow me to demonstrate with the panoramic function on my iPhone.
I’m not usually one to complain about painting (except for painting ceilings, in which case I will whine for days) but painting walls is usually “the fun part” for us. However (here comes the BUT!) I think whenever you go into any project thinking “this’ll be fast and easy” it’s a slippery slope. And after 6+ years of DIYing we should have know better, so it’s no ones fault but our own. But this was totally one of those tiny areas (seriously, the whole thing is probably around 80 square feet) that had us feeling cocky and saying “let’s just bang this out in an hour or two” and it ended up taking a few 2-hour installments over a couple of days. Womp-womp. But it’s done! Praise those sweet, unpredictable DIY Gods, it’s done.
The color we chose was Revere Pewter, which Sherry says pops up on Pinterest as a lot of people’s favorite light-to-mid-toned color. Her brain also refuses to read it as “Revere Pewter” so she can’t stop calling it “Reverie Pewter” – even when the guy at the paint desk is like “Oh, you mean Revere.”
You might remember that we tossed out this “Percolating In Progress” post with a few first thoughts on paint colors right after we moved in. For the master bathroom and our walk in closet we wanted something somewhat light (there aren’t any windows in either of those spaces) but not too light that it washed out things like the white trim, white mirror, and the white shelving in the closet. At first we debated Pismo Dunes and Gray Owl (both below) but we ended up liking the Revere Pewter swatch better, which is sort of a combination of both of them. It’s almost like a darker tone of Edgecomb Gray (less brown than Pismo Dunes and a little richer and less gray than Gray Owl).
We really liked the way it dried. Taupe-y in some lights (like this shot). Gray-ish in others (like the one below this one). It changes throughout the day, and works really nicely with the deep faded blue-gray color (Black Pepper) in our bedroom.
The rolling was pretty easy by comparison to the edging. Oh and we chose to paint the ceiling the same color as the walls in here. We’ve learned in small spaces it actually makes the room feel less cramped when the ceiling and the walls are the same tone (assuming it’s not too dark of a color) since it just makes an angular/choppy/cramped space feel less broken up and boxed in.
And just like the other rooms we’ve painted, after all the paint was dry, I used this as an opportunity to switch out all of the light switches and outlets from the old cream versions to clean white ones. This photo is a bit darker (hello black hole closet) because I had the power off, but it actually demonstrates how the wall color sort of chameleons itself in different lighting situations.
Even with the lights on, the darker color on the walls is a nice backdrop to help show off the mirror’s shape (and all of that trim that we painted pops nicely too).
We still have a ton of other things to attend to in here, but here’s a little side-by-side comparison of where we started (well, once carpet was up) to where we are now.
With the walls painted, we can now get jiggy with the floor (I don’t think I’m using that right) which is the part we’re most excited for because, well, it’s the most unattractive at the moment. And since the sunroom grout situation is still looking a little bleak (throw us a bone, Mother Nature!) all signs are pointing towards this floor getting done before we can finish the tile-job outside.
Oh, and just as we predicted in this post about our master bathroom plans (where you can also read more about why we’re down with painting this floor, how we’d like to add shelves to the vanity to balance it out, etc) we changed our minds again. After some more percolating, we worried that staining the vanity a dark blue color might not work very well with our yellow-ish sinktop, and we also thought we could have a lot more fun with the floor than going all-one-color with it…
… so now we’re thinking that a two-toned stencil on the floor and a more subdued color on the vanity might play better with the sinktop tone without robbing the room of any excitement (instead of adding interest to the vanity we’ll just shift the attention to the floor). Sort of like how a darker tone on the vanity in our half bathroom downstairs neutralized the same yellow-toned sink – and then we can add art and accessories for more color, interest, and to balance things out so the room makes sense in real life (photoshopped renderings aren’t always the perfect real-life representation).
So that’s where we are in the master bathroom. We’re around halfway done after getting to check off:
- carpet removal
- mirror painting & hanging (more on both of those steps here)
- painting the trim
- painting the walls
- replacing all of the outlets/light switches
So we just have the vanity and the floors (along with re-adding the light above the sink) to attend to before we can declare that this interim update is done-zo. It never fails to amaze us how much a few days of work and some paint (along with small updates like a new mirror, some shelves, and some carpet removal) can change a space so much. So here’s hoping we have some after photos in a few weeks. Sherry’s trying to convince me that adding some more shelves and cubbies to the walk-in closet could be nice while we’re at it. I guess you never really know where one update might lead. You know what they say, if you give
a mouse a house a cookie…