Furniture Upgrades & Building Stuff
Top o’ the built-in to ya! On Monday the bases to our nursery built-ins were complete, and now (yes, you guessed it) so are the tops… well, except for some caulking, paint touch ups, and crown molding to finish things off.
We’re really happy with how they’ve turned out, and Sherry is about to explode from waiting to fill them in (I’m making her wait until we’ve finished all of our final caulking and paint touch-ups along with the rest of the room’s crown – I know, THE NERVE). But let me show you how we got to this stage, because the tops took a bit more planning than the bases did since I was building them from scratch.
We decided to build from scratch since we couldn’t find any pre-existing bookcases that would fit in that space. We went with plywood for the material – specifically, this PureBond eco plywood from Home Depot, which is formaldehyde-free (along with chunky wood trim pieces to beef up the sides and the shelf fronts). A 4ft x 8ft panel of that eco plywood is $47 so I figured out ahead of time how to get the most out of one piece. I still had to buy another 2′ x 4′ piece to get my last two shelves, but otherwise I was pretty proud of figuring out this puzzle.
I got all of these pieces cut down in the store, which made life much easier – especially since their big saw locks in place, so I had more confidence that my pieces would be consistent widths. Luckily the Home Depot guy was having a slow day so he was happy to oblige. They were small enough to fit in my car by this point, but since I was also buying a bunch of long pieces of crown molding for the rest of the room, I went ahead and rented their truck to get everything home for $19.
We tried to paint all of our pieces BEFORE installing them, since it’s typically easier to paint things when they’re laid out on the ground or leaned up against the wall (without having to worry about edging or cutting in around stuff). Here are the tall side pieces drying.
Once they were dry and the bases were finished, I attached one side piece directly to the wall (into a stud in a few places, to make it crazy secure).
Then I attached a thin brace piece (a strip of 1 x 3″ that I had cut and painted already) along the top into a couple of studs. This piece wouldn’t do anything visually (it would later be hidden) but it gave me a place to attach the second side piece. I screwed right through it into the end of the brace. You’ll note that we’re just relying on the wall to act as the back of the built-ins rather than attaching a plywood panel. We did this mainly for cost and simplicity purposes (we can always paint it a bright color or slide in foam core or cardboard covered backs with fabric or wallpaper to spice things up a little later).
That second side piece would gradually become more secure as I went along, attaching more braces and shelves. But to keep it as square as possible as I went, I temporarily attached a board across the front (which I later popped off). You’ll also note some pieces laying there at the bottom helping to keep things square down by the base of the bookcase.
With the sides in place, I could start building our shelves, so I marked along one side where each of them were going to go.
The night before this Sherry and I had played around a bit with where we wanted them to sit. We decided on doing three shelves (creating four cubbies) because it seemed like the most balanced look to us – not too cramped, not too spacious. We went for permanent shelves, rather than adjustable ones, because we thought they’d look more polished and would accommodate most things since they’re pretty standard sizes.
We typically like our shelves all evenly placed, but we noticed that this made the bottom shelf look a little small for some reason when we taped things out. Then we came across this room and really liked the spacious bottom shelf design, so we gave ours a few extra inches of breathing room too – and here’s where we ended up (the painter’s tape represents the width of each shelf). The depth of all of the shelves is 11″ by the way.
Next it was time to attach the shelf braces. I cut these brace pieces by ripping a 1 x 3″ along my table saw into .75″ wide pieces. This will make more sense in a moment, but basically any thicker than that and the braces would hang below the trim pieces that I’d be adding later to the front of each shelf.
I nailed the braces into the wall and the sides (being sure to keep things level as I went) just to get everything in place. Then to make sure they were secure and could bear weight, I went back and screwed them each into the studs in a few spots.
Here are all three shelves added (Sherry and I had already pre-cut and painted them). I also nailed each shelf down into the brace piece so they won’t pop out or jiggle or anything.
One of the continuous challenges of this build has been that our walls aren’t totally flat/level. So my perfectly cut shelf pieces didn’t necessarily sit perfectly flush in some spots. But it wasn’t anything a little paintable caulk couldn’t fix along those back edges – especially since I had to caulk all the various seams where the braces met the shelf anyway.
Once the caulk had dried, we took this opportunity to paint the back wall and ceiling to match the rest of the built-ins. We considered leaving the wall color as-is, but decided it’d look more like one unit if we painted that to match the shelves. We’re still open to adding a pop of color to the backs down the line, or even some foam core covered with fabric or wallpaper, but we want to load up the shelves to see how they look first (don’t want them to get too busy).
After our wall paint dried, I re-hung the temporary header piece that I had added before (I popped it off so Sherry could paint it). It doesn’t go all the way to the ceiling because the crown will cover that gap (and it was cheaper to buy a 1 x 6″ piece than a 1 x 8″ one). Next I attached the face trim. Since plywood has a rough and unfinished edge, we wanted to polish things off with some 1 x 2″ pieces to frame out the front and make them look chunky. Sherry likes to call this method “Restoration Hardware-ing” something, because it really is the difference between a budget look and a nice substantial and solid one.
Then I could begin to install the crown molding. We’re using the same technique that we used in Clara’s room (upside down baseboard + crown = extra beefy crown). Since I intentionally bought the shorter/cheaper 3.25″ baseboard (knowing that it wouldn’t sit flush to the ceiling, but that the gap would be covered by the crown) you can see how I used a spacer on top of the piece that I’m nailing to make sure I got things in the right spot.
There were a few questions on Monday about white vs. gray molding and whether it should match the built-ins or the rest of the room. We’ve seen it done both ways, but here’s a room where it matches the built-ins, which we liked more. We may change our minds once we see all the trim installed, but we just pictured a white stripe at the top and bottom of them looking funny – kind of like the middles are floating. So we like the idea of grounding them with same-toned baseboards and elongating them by continuing that color on the crown.
Here’s a piece of freshly painted crown just held in place so you can get the idea of what it’ll look like. I’m going to wait to install these pieces ’til I do the whole room, which will hopefully be early next week.
We still need to do some caulking, nail hole filling, and paint touch-ups. But for the purposes of today, we’re declaring them done enough. At least enough for us to start putting the room back together.
Oh and a few folks on Monday wondered if these built-ins were storage overkill, at least for a baby, but they’re just our way of playing the long game in here. Clara’s six-drawer dresser was barely full when she was born, but in a few short years she has grown, along with her clothes, and now that big double dresser is overflowing. So we think these eight drawers will be full in no time.
It would probably make for more blog fodder if we redid everything when he’s 3, but we’re trying to invest time and money into more permanent-but-flexible pieces for this guy, especially since we plan to be here long-term. That’s why we constructed these to eventually accommodate a twin sized bed (lengthwise) or even a full-sized bed (width-wise) when that time comes. So while we love easy & inexpensive Phase 1 updates for rooms that are extra pricey to renovate (like kitchens/bathrooms, especially when we’re not sure what we want to do with their layouts just yet), if we know what we want and have the money on hand for a space like a bedroom (or our recently renovated sunroom), it’s exciting to work towards that end-vision from the get-go.
As for the placement of the crib between these new built-ins, there’s about 15″ of wiggle room on each side, so we’re not concerned about Barnacle being able to reach out and scale the bookcases (we’ll drop the mattress when he’s more mobile, so they’ll be even further out of reach). And if he turns out to be especially long-armed or daredevil-ish, we can always rotate the crib 90° so the gap is even greater.
And now for some random room thoughts from Sherry, after we pushed the crib back in there:
- “Now I’m itching to paint the crib drawer since it’s a little clashy – maybe bright green?”
- “The white of the crib looks pretty out of place right now, but I think once we add curtains and frames and things on those bookcases it’ll make more sense.”
- “Colorrrrrr! Faaaaaabric! Let’s have some fun now that these studly built-ins are in the bag.”
The room’s definitely looking like Beige City right now (not to be confused with Bear City) but we have big plans to layer in lots more as we go – just like we did in Clara’s room, which started with white walls. So stuff like bedding, a mobile, window treatments, books, toys, and some colorful art should definitely add more personality.
As for the total cost of these two built-in bookcases, I spent around $60 per side (which includes the eco plywood for the sides and shelves, the baseboard and quarter-round that I used at the foot of the dressers, the lumber for lifting the dressers up to accommodate those baseboards, and the wood for the shelf braces & face trim).
In summary: I’m beyond psyched to have these checked off of our to-do list. When we first started discussing them I pictured them taking me months to finish, so I’m pleasantly surprised to have them knocked out in about two weeks. All of that priming, painting, staining, sealing, and caulking (shout out to the lady-wife for her help with that) really cuts into your pace sometimes! Speaking of Sherry, I know that she’s happy to have them done so she can unleash her decorating beast in here. Just picture her doing her best Golum impression and creepily whispering things like “criiiiib skiiiiirt” and “boooookcase stufffff.”
It’s been a busy but productive week in the nursery built-in department, so I’m going to cover a lot in this post. Hang on to your hats, crank up your favorite Swedish electropop, and be prepared for some nitty-gritty detail on how we began the transformation from free-standing Ikea dresser to built-in dresser/bookshelf combo (that’s not a finished result on the right, by the way, it’s just photoshop).
As you might recall, we bought two FJELL dressers because they were the size we needed and they were made of solid wood. But they did need a little additional help when it came to giving them a built-in look:
- The indented side profile meant it couldn’t sit flush to the wall, leaving a pretty glaring gap that needed filling
- The nursery’s baseboards on both the side and the back also prevented it from hugging the walls tightly
- The bottom drawer wasn’t built up enough from the floor to accommodate wrap-around baseboards, which we wanted to add to complete the built-in look
None of these issues were insurmountable, but it did take a some extra work to get them taken care of before we could move on to the fun stuff. Let’s start with problem #2: the existing baseboard, since it’s an issue that anyone would run into with any piece of furniture they’re trying to build-in. The solution? Cut it out. I just had to mark where to make my cuts. I marked where it sat originally, but kept in mind that when I removed the side baseboard, the whole piece would shift to the left against the wall. Same goes for marking the side cut (when I remove the back baseboard, it would sit further back).
To cut it out I used my Dremel Multimax. The metal radiator cover (leftover from this project) is just there to help protect the floor. You don’t technically need a metal grate, but I figured this way it would make a pretty distinct noise when my blade got too close, which was a nice warning to keep me from damaging the floor underneath it.
Once I had cut all the way through, I scored the seam between the wall and the baseboard with a utility knife (to make sure no wall paint peeled off with the baseboard). Then I just pried off the quarter-round and the baseboard.
With both the back and side baseboard removed, I excitedly pushed the piece back into the corner… only to realize that the top piece was now the problem. It was bigger than the bottom of the dresser, so the overhang was preventing me from getting the piece completely flush. Bummer.
So Sherry and I had a little “meeting of the minds” and decided to trim the top a smidge to remedy the situation. Luckily, being an IKEA product, it was easy enough to remove the top (after I marked how much would need to come off). I was sure to write my cut measurements on the side that needed a trim so that once I got downstairs to my saw I didn’t accidentally slice the wrong end.
I set the guide on my table saw to the correct measurement and just sliced the two sides accordingly. This is a moment we were particularly thankful that we went with a nice sturdy dresser made of solid wood (and not particle board, which can be tougher to cut cleanly).
With the top cut and reattached, the dresser now sat nice and flush against the wall on the back… but I was still dealing with a gap-on-the-side (problem #1, if you remember).
This was an easy solution because the gap just happened to be 3/4″, which meant I just had to slip a 1 x 2″ piece of scrap wood in there (after I cut it to the right length with my miter saw). It was actually a tight enough fit that it might’ve stayed on its own, but I put a couple of nails through the dresser into it, just to be safe.
The last and final issue (#3) was building up the entire piece so that the bottom drawer wouldn’t be blocked by the new baseboard that we wanted to wrap around the base of each dresser. We decided a simple base/platform for the dresser to sit on would be nice and simple, and would buy us the extra height that we needed. Since it wouldn’t be visible, we just chose some 2 x 4″ framing lumber (since we needed it raised about 3.5″ off the ground). I cut the pieces and then attached them to each other in place, using my Kreg jig and some nice heavy duty screws.
Here you can see how the dresser (sans drawers at the moment, for easier moving) sits right on top of this base. I didn’t actually attach the dresser to the base, which leads me to my next point…
Securing everything in place was really important. We didn’t want this thing to move an inch – especially movement of the tip-over variety (dressers can be especially wobbly if someone pulls all the drawers out at once). So using my stud-finder I found as many places as I could to drill through nice solid wood (i.e. not the thinner backing piece) into studs – along both the side and the back. Not only did that help make things super flush against the wall, but both the base and the dresser became rock solid in their placement. Phew.
I know all of that didn’t seem terribly complicated (or exciting), but there was enough careful measuring, cutting, and screwing together, that it took me a good day-ish to complete… especially since I had to do it twice over.
I was deep into building mode at this point, but logic told me that I should pause construction and Sherry and I should do some of our painting and staining before going further. Taking time for these steps while everything was still apart would mean less edging and taping, so it would hopefully save us time in the long (and result in a really clean look).
First up was staining the top, since we decided we wanted to take advantage of its wood grain texture and make it contrast a bit from the rest of it. We had two stains on hand that we’ve always liked, so it was just a matter of choosing which one worked for this application.
We were having a hard time judging based on the cans, so we decided to just look at real projects that were already sporting those colors. Clara’s dresser was Red Mahogany and my bike frames were Dark Walnut.
It’s hard to tell from that picture above, but in person the Dark Walnut color was closer to the floors (Red Mahogany was darker) and was also the exact tone that we’d used on the bike frames that would go in the room, so that made the decision pretty easy.
I removed the tops, took them out to the garage, and got to staining. They each took two coats of stain followed by two coats of Acrylacq sealer, which Sherry brushed on (it’s non-toxic and awesome for sealing in any off-gasing from non-eco products like the stain). Including drying time, this step stretched over about four days, but each coat went on pretty quickly, so a lot of that was just drying time.
But we didn’t sit idly by, we had two whole dressers to paint. Except one thing we worried about – which some of you explicitly warned us about – was the potential bleed-through. Strong knots like these have a tendency to make stains seep right through a paint job over time, even through layers of primer and paint in some cases.
So thanks to some of your warnings and a little bit of research on Sherry’s part, we decided to take a couple of knot-busting tricks for a spin. The first was to cover them in wood putty, since it’s supposed to seal the knots and keep them from bleeding. I’ll admit I wasn’t crazy about this technique, mostly because it was time consuming (this piece has LOTS of knots) and when it came to sanding down the dried wood putty (which I did with a palm sander) it was a thin line to walk between getting it smooth again and sanding all the putty off completely. In the end I think we got a nice thin glaze of putty over most of the knots though, which did feel like added protection.
Sherry also had another trick up her sleeve (thanks Internet!), which was painting a thin layer of wood glue over each of those puttied knot areas. This technique was considerably faster (glue is surprisingly easy to paint with) and it didn’t result in any sanding dust getting everywhere.
We could’ve avoided the putty and glue by using a shellac-based primer, but since we try to keep things as fume-free as possible (especially in a nursery where a newborn will soon reside), we prefer to use Kilz Premium as our primer (it’s VOC-free). We used that on our kitchen cabinets a month ago, which were darker and had their fair share of knots, and nothing has come through their crisp white finish, so it does seem to do the trick in most cases – and the wood putty and glue that we used on the dresser feels like nice added insurance.
Not to skip ahead or anything, but it has been a few days since priming and painting, and so far not even a hint of bleed has occurred (sometimes things bleed right through the primer before you even get to the painting step, so it has been really comforting). Only time will tell if these techniques really work for the long run, but you know we’ll keep you posted either way.
Speaking of the priming step, we already had some Kilz Premium leftover from when we painted our bedroom dark blue, which is why it’s tinted.
We probably didn’t need tinted primer, but we appreciated the chance to use up this can. Sherry detached and rolled all of the drawer fronts downstairs in the kitchen (it was too cold in the garage) and upstairs I rolled the bases in place, along with a few pieces that I had already cut for the top part of the build.
With the primer dry, we could move on to our first coat of paint (we went with Senora Gray in Advance paint, which is made for furniture and cabinetry, and has some nice self-leveling and low-VOC perks). It’s the same paint we used on our office cabinets in our last house, along with our last two kitchens. Those office cabinets were beat on by Clara with wooden trains when she was younger, so we love how durable it was.
The color nearly gave us heart palpitations when it first went on. It was so light and so, I dunno, beige. We actually triple checked the swatch and can to make sure they had mixed it right. Fortunately it dried considerably darker and much closer to what we were envisioning. Phew.
Although I’ll admit we did second-guess the color a bit. It’s not nearly as dark as our photoshopped rendering, but that was on purpose. After doing that mock up, Sherry found the inspiration picture below on Pinterest (it’s originally from Ballard Designs) and that’s how we picked Senora Gray for the built-ins and Going To The Chapel for the walls (more on that process in this post).
Still, I think Senora Gray turned out a bit lighter than we expected – namely in that it doesn’t contrast with the walls as much as we thought it would (even though it’s four squares below the wall color on the swatch card). We considering picking a new color before applying our second coat, but we decided it was a blessing in disguise, because it makes the stained wood top and the hardware pop really nicely thanks to more contrast, and as much as Sherry and I might chose moodier built-ins for ourselves, we keep trying to remind ourselves that this is a room for a little boy (and it only has one window) – so keeping things lighter isn’t a bad thing.
We finished both coats and put everything back together – including the stained top, the hardware (which came with the FJELL originally), and even started attaching some of the molding on the floor. That baseboard and shoe molding will be painted Senora Gray too – we just have some caulking to do first.
Update #1: People are wondering how we decided to paint the baseboard (and the crown we’ll be adding) to match the built-ins instead of keeping them white. We think it could look good either way, but we just prefer the look of an entire piece from floor to ceiling being the same tone (as opposed to accenting something like baseboard or crown by choosing to make it a contrasting color – especially since we already have the stained wood top as an accent). Here’s an example of a painted built-in with the baseboard and the crown in the same color, which we really like.
We’re super psyched with how they’re turning out. I know they’re a bit anticlimactic without having their bookcase tops on yet, but after all the time it took to get this far we relished in them at least looking partially complete.
Update #2: A few others have asked if we’ve thought about filling that indentation on the inside edge of each dresser for more balance. In person we actually really love that added detail (we feel like it gives them some special architecture, and once the crib is between them it’ll be a nice little accent). Of course we could always change our minds and add something to fill that down the road, so we’ll keep you posted!
Assuming things stay on course the next couple of days, we should have these completely finished – built to the ceiling and primed/painted – by Wednesday or Thursday. Which is a huge relief because when I first started planning these guys I felt like I’d be lucky to have them done before baby boy arrives. Guess I kinda overestimated the task!
We’re definitely looking forward to crossing off the biggest project on our to-do list with ten weeks left for the fun stuff (Sherry can’t wait to tackle things like bedding, mobile-making, art, curtains, a bold green closet door, adding sconces and a light fixture, and doing something exciting to the wall between the built-ins where the crib will go).
Were you guys painting or building anything this weekend? Have you ever used existing furniture, but altered it in some way to get a custom or built-in look?