How To Paint Furniture
Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table or any other wood piece, the steps are pretty much the same. For example, take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone):
Gussying things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar table for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough of the eye candy. On with the tutorial…
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish. Give the entire piece a good once over with a roller or paintbrush. Do not use a foam roller as they’re known to create little bubbles that can sabotage a smooth finish. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone, in fact it will probably look thinner in some areas but as long as the entire piece is covered it’s ready for step three.
Step 3- Use a fresh roller (again, not foam) or a paintbrush to apply two coats of latex paint (semi-gloss or flat, the finish is up to you). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the result is always fabulous and stain/bubble free. The real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. Foam rollers can also lead to bubbles in paint while paintbrushes are the most bubble free application method known to man, even over regular rollers (we painted the table above with a paintbrush, not a roller). Be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat, which will dramatically cut down on any visible brush strokes for a smooth, gorgeous finish.
Step 4- This step is optional, but we strongly recommend brushing on two thin coats of water-based polyurethane for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and a glossy sheen that looks oh-so-luxe). The only brand that we’ve ever used with unmatched success is Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” so that’s our recommendation. Of course we added the poly to our white table above, and we even polyurethaned the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll wanna be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 48 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. This might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not the exact tone or shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black or a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project you can confidently take on in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood (laminate, veneered wood, etc) you should definitely visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul.
In the market for a handy dandy cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further. And speaking of paint, here’s one of our favorite books when it comes to picking the perfect colors for your entire house. There are so many fun ideas we wish we had more rooms…
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Comments
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I restained and added poly to an end table and it looks fantastic. I also painted some drawers and they looked great, but once I added poly the faint brush lines don’t seem to blend in like they did with the paint layer and I can see them in direct light. Is this to be expected, or am I missing something with my polycrylic technique.
Glad to hear that it’s looking fantastic! When it comes to poly application, the key is to apply super thin and even coats (with the grain of the wood) so they go on more like one super thin layer of shine (aim for the thickness of a sheet of paper or an eggshell). If you apply things thicker in an attempt to get a super glossy layer (instead of building it up with two or three thin layers) it’ll show a lot more strokes since it’s a deeper application and the bristles “cut” into the poly and can show even after things dry. If you were applying the poly as thinly as possible along the grain of the wood and still see very subtle strokes in the end, fear not. That super subtle linear look just mimics the grain of the wood so it should fit right in and look polished and finished, even if it’s not 100% flat. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Ruh Roh. I just spent hours, days, weekends sanding and spray painting four, yes FOUR :(, chairs white and applied one coat of Wipe On Poly. I’m now hearing that they will yellow. It’s only been three days since I applied it, no yellowing, but I don’t want to risk it.
What should I do at this point? Can I do a light sand, spray paint a couple more coats and then apply the correct poly?
Love your blog, read it each and every day. :) Thanks for any tips you might have on this mess.
It sounds like you’re in the clear! They’ll usually yellow as they “cure” (aka: dry) so three days out means you’re probably safe. Don’t do a thing and enjoy those chairs of yours!
xo,
s
Oh that is great news. I’ll keep my eyes on them just to be sure…..cannot believe I did that without researching it first after all the work I put into them!
So if they don’t yellow right away, they won’t yellow over time either?
That’s a possibility, but usually about 80-95% of the yellowing happens right away as it dries. So sure after twenty years they might yellow a bit (any sort of poly will yellow over decades, that’s why hardwood floors look a bit yellow after 50 years) but you’re definitely lucky not to have noticed anything major off the bat. It bodes well for those chairs lasting a very long time without a tinge of yellow. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Thank you! Sounds like it might not be worth the extra work of sanding and re-painting!
I’ve almost completed my dining room furniture project, just one more question. I refinished the seats of the chairs to reflect the hard oak, painted the legs and back in black. I am now down to the spindles on the back where they meet up with the refinished oak seat….. how do I painted the tiny spindles where they meet up with the seat? I fear if I tape the seat area it will possibly damage the newly refinished wood, but I also fear a dribble of black paint on it too! Suggestion, please. Thanks a bunch!
We would just use a tiny craft brush (from Michael’s instead of Home Depot) to get into all those little areas, and maybe you can use a bit of painter’s tape to stop the drips from getting on the seat, but stick it to your pants like ten times so it’s “linty” and therefore a lot less sticky so it won’t damage the refinishing job. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
WoW! What an awesome blog. I’m doing the same thing-making over my first home one piece of furniture at a time. Right now I’m working on a large bedroom set. I bought it on craigslist and sanded it down, primed it, and painted it a greyish black. Now comes the protective finish…but I’m scared! I bought polycrylic by Minwax and have read and reread the instructions. I have a quality synthetic brush; but, am afraid when going over the detailed doors of the armoire or the long legnth of the dresser top that I will have hideous brush stroles. Any suggestions? Foam brush? Roller? Help?!
No way! Avoid those at all costs. They rile up the poly and make bubbles and imperfections. Definitely use a high quality brush and apply thin thin thin coats (as thin as an eggshell or a piece of paper). You only get brush strokes if it’s too thick or you’re not waiting for it to fully dry before going over it again (no touching up certain parts a minute later because it’ll start to dry and you’ll get brush drag marks). Hope it helps!
xo,
s
I used to think that redesigning a home would cost big bucks, but your blog has really inspired me to find cheap ways to update my home. :) My first project was to paint a veneer coffee table black. After lightly sanding and priming, I walked away to wait for it to dry. My dad, trying to be helpful, saw that it was dry and applied *another* coat of primer (not sure why…), but of course he did it in the *other* direction of the grain. So now, after 3 coats of latex paint, the brush strokes are still very obvious. I was going to hand sand it down a bit (with ~220 grit paper) and then apply another coat of latex paint. Do you think this will be suffice or do I have to sand down to the veneer (which I’m nervous to do) and prime/paint over again? Thanks in advance for your help! You guys are so sweet to always answer everyone’s questions.
Also, would there be any chance of you doing a “how-to paint” video? No matter how much I read about the right technique to paint, I keep messing it up. I think seeing it done will make it click better in my head, and your videos are always so helpful. Thanks again!
Hey Yen,
No worries! We think sanding down just that latex paint and a bit of the second coat of primer (until it’s smooth and there are no longer obvious brushstrokes) should be just fine. Just try to evenly sand so you don’t hit veneer in some spots while others are more shallow. It shouldn’t be that hard though. You’ll do great!
As for a how-to-paint video, we’ll definitely put it on our (admittedly very long) to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion! Here’s hoping we can tackle it someday…
xo,
s
I have a client that had us build custom bookcases with built-in desks. My painter sprayed them with a latex eggshell paint (Benjamin Moore color mink in a Behr base). All was well until the cabinet maker put the doors on and messed up the surface of the desk. At this point the carpet was put in so spraying is no longer an option. The homeowner wanted a glass smooth desktop surface. When the carpenter added few doors he also messed up the painted surface. My painter sanded and then rolled on paint with a foam brush. Now we have a bubbly surface on the desktop and a few cabinet doors. There are also some knicks that need to be corrected. Can you advise on the best way to fix this issue without changing paint or having to repaint all of the cabinets? I am trying to keep the homeowner from having a bad experience. Thank you so much for your help.
Your best bet would be to sand everything down with 200 grit paper until it’s nice and smooth and apply two to three very very very thin and even coats of the semi gloss or gloss latex paint (with a paint brush and not a roller) to salvage everything and end up with a nice glossy finish. Then be sure to let everything cure up and dry for days (at least three to five full days) before resting anything on the desktops or using the cabinets- and just to be safe you can wait a full week. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
I painted a a solid oak clawfoot table white(don’t cringe) after lightly sanding. I’m already getting chipped paint, after only a few months. I applied a Minwax latex/water-based topcoat…I wish I would have known about the oil-based primer and not to use foam rollers. At this point, should I prime over the latex and repaint, or try to remove/strip all finishes and start over?
Thanks,
Heather
We would sand it all down as much as possible before priming it (since if your paint isn’t adhered correctly, priming over that won’t keep it from chipping). Then once you have it all sanded down (of course you can also use a chemical stripper but we like sandpaper because it’s less stinky and messy) you can follow the oil-based primer, latex paint, Minwax top coat steps that are outlined above. Hope it helps! And good luck!
xo,
s
Hi there,
I have become addicted to your blog since a friend of mine recommended it to me – LOVE it! Keep up the good work!
Just curious – is there a particular type of oil-based primer that you prefer and that works well? I’ve never used an oil-based primer before when painting furniture.
Thanks in advance!
We like Kilz, but it comes in water based and oil based formulas so make sure you snag the one that says oil-based and also has the word “stainblocker” as well as the word “primer” on the can for the most protection. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
I bought alot of furniture trimmed in glossy green (when green was in) and now that it’s not, would like to paint it black. I think the spindle legs are my greatest concern. Would it be better to paint them with a brush, or spray paint them so it will be more even? Do you still recommend sanding the paint down, and what type of paint should I use?
If the paint is super glossy or varnished/lacquered, we would definitely recommend sanding things down a bit for better adhesion. If it’s not you’ll be fine just going to the primer step. And as for spindle legs, assuming you apply thin and even coats you should get great coverage with a brush- just be patient and take your time (and let things dry thoroughly between coats). You could use spray paint but it’s usually a less durable and long term solution- and it could result in a ton of drips and imperfections so you might just have the best luck with a brush. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
I am beginning to prepare a dining room set (table 3 extensions, 6 chairs and credenza). The wood is pecan and chairs have cane backs. I have a few questions:
1. Is there a good way to sand in corners, crevices? The chairs and table have a cut in the legs that is very narrow. A q-tip made of sandpaper would fit.
2. What should I do about the cane back. The front appears to have varnish/shellac on it. The back does not seem as smooth.
3. When sanding do you need to get all the way down to where all you see is wood?
Thanks. Betty
Hey Betty,
1. We like to tuck something rigid into sandpaper (folding it around it) to get into crevices, like an old butter knife.
2. We would delicately sand the cane back, just enough to rough it up so primer sticks
3. Nope, just rough things up so they’re a bit less slick and smooth (the “toothiness” that you create helps primer to adhere)
Hope it helps!
xo,
s
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Eeks! That’s why we much prefer sanding to stripping. It’s a lot more even and error proof. Our advice (if you truly don’t like the stain application and believe that it’s uneven) is to let it all dry and sand everything down to the same color bare wood- hopefully that’ll even things out for a smoother application. Hope it helps!
xo,
s