Painting your kitchen cabinets is a perfect way to give a dated kitchen a fresh look, without splurging on a big overhaul. It doesn’t cost much and with the proper preparation, it’ll look great and last long. We’ve outlined each of the steps below, including a video recap of all of the steps that we used to updated our wood kitchen cabinets.
(Rolls up sleeves, looks into the mirror, smiles, fixes weird fly aways, and whispers “let’s do this.”)
It’s finally here. The day that we get to wake up and pad into a kitchen that used to look like this…
And see this…
So here’s how we did it from soup to nuts. Wait, first let me gush a little more. Seriously, it doesn’t even feel like the same room. Scroll back up and picture yourself standing next to the fridge in the “before” shot. The cabinets felt about two feet away from you on all sides. I can’t explain it, but it was like the room didn’t respect my personal space and was always inching towards me. It was all up in my area. Now when I stand at the sink or pantry, I literally feel like I could perform a small musical number (with a minimum of six Glee backup dancers). It just feels so much roomier. Plus no weird cabinet knob-eyes are looking over my shoulder anymore. Bonus.
But let’s get back to the present. Ahh, much better.
Our big cabinet-painting victory hardly happened overnight. We’ve been slowly working up to this sucker for a while now. First we painted the paneling, the fireplace, and the beams. Then we rearranged our cabinets a bit, got new appliances and, oh yeah, got a big beautiful hole busted in the wall. Then some cabinets came in, others came down, and eventually new counters made their way to us. Finally, the painting project was upon us. So first came the primer…
… and, at long last, the paint. Speaking of the paint, we used Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint in Cloud Cover in a satin finish (it’s a soft tonal taupey-gray color, so it’s not quite as bright as our glacier white counters for a subtle layered look). Benjamin Moore Advance paint actually came recommended by a few pro cabinet painters that we know. We went with the satin finish because it’s specially formulated for cabinets (they actually came out with satin first and only added semi-gloss later to help folks who wanted more shine). We used it on our office cabinets a few months back (which still look great after Clara has beat on them relentlessly with wooden fruit) so it’s safe to say that we’ve been extremely happy with it. The fact that it’s low-VOC, self-leveling, and amazingly durable is pretty much the best thing ever.
Since a bunch of you have asked, here’s a rough timeline of the cabinet painting process (we just worked on nights after Clara went to bed and weekends during her naps, so it’s a good indication of what anyone with a day job might be able to follow):
- Day 1: We removed the cabinet doors (including drawerfronts) and hardware (including hinges), applied wood filler to cracks and hardware holes, let everything dry for a few hours, lightly sanded the putty spots by hand, and refilled them with a second layer of wood filler wherever necessary. We did the same to the cabinet frames. Our wood filler of choice was Elmer’s ProBond Professional Strength Wood Filler.
- Day 2: With the wood filler completely dry, we used a palm sander to smooth any putty spots and rough up all cabinet doors in the sealed off sunroom (it’s a dusty job). We then emptied out all the kitchen cabinets and covered appliances with drop cloths so we could also use the sander on our cabinet frames (roughing everything up = better adhesion). After everything was sanded, we wiped it down with a liquid deglosser (we like Next from Home Depot because it’s low-VOC and biodegradable). Read a lot more on the puttying, sanding, and deglossing steps of this process here (there are lots of pics too!).
- Day 3: Cabinet door backs and cabinet frames were primed (we love Zinsser Smart Prime which is high-quality, stain-blocking, and low-VOC – the primer trifecta). We applied it with a high quality 2″ angled brush to get into all the cracks and a small foam roller to smooth everything out and ensure that we were applying super thin and even coats (there’s a video of the application process a bit further down in this post)
- Day 4: We flipped the cabinet doors over and primed the fronts, leaving them to dry another 24 hours, just like the backs. Read more about the priming steps of this process here (there are extra pics too!).
- Day 5: With the primer all done and dry (be sure to read the can – ours said not to over-prime, so one coat did the trick), during Clara’s nap we flipped the cabinet doors over again and painted one coat of paint on the backs (we used Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint in Cloud Cover). We applied it with a high quality 2″ angled brush to get into all the cracks and a small foam roller to smooth everything out and ensure that we were applying super thin and even coats (there’s a video of the application process a bit further down in this post). Clara woke up before we could paint the frames, so after she went to bed that night we put a first coat on the cabinet frames.
- Day 6: We applied a second coat of paint on the back of the cabinet doors and the frames after Clara went to bed. As for applying any sealer or topcoat, the general pro recommendation for cabinet painting is to use high quality stain blocking primer and 2-3 thin and even coats of super high quality paint with ample drying time between coats (Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint is meant for cabinets without any top coat, since sealers can drip, yellow, and even cause things to stick/crack since they thicken the application).
- Day 7: We gave the doors a full day to dry before flipping them over and applying a first coat to the fronts (the reason we did the backs first was that just in case the backs got marked up while we painted the front, at least the front would remain pristine). The day of drying time did the trick though, so the backs look as good as the fronts.
- Days 8 & 9: We applied the first and second coat of paint to the front of the doors over these two days. Read a lot more on the puttying, sanding, and deglossing steps of this process here (there are lots of pics too!).
- Days 10 – 13: We let the doors dry and cure for the recommended time on the can (always read the can!).
- Day 14: We drilled for and installed the hardware on all of the doors (more on that in a sec). We also hung the doors but ran out of time before getting to the drawer fronts.
- Day 15: We installed hardware on the drawer fronts, put the drawers back in, and restocked the kitchen. A droopy but spirited happy dance also ensued.
All that info above (and those three bolded links to the previous posts on puttying/sanding/deglossing, priming, & painting) should be enough to get you going on any cabinet-painting project – but just because I always think a video is worth a thousand pics, here’s a quick one that runs through the process for you. Although at some points I’m so delirious that I make up words (putty brush?) and refer to primer as paint about a dozen times. But it definitely can be helpful to see exactly how to putty a hardware hole or how to prime and paint a cabinet door. Enjoy!
As for the hardware installation details that we promised in our timeline above, we bought these handy Liberty Hardware guides at Home Depot for $7 to help us place everything evenly (centered side to side, and consistently at the same height so all the doors match up). Let’s call it the best seven beans we’ve ever spent (it’s incredibly nerve-wracking to drill through your freshly painted cabinet doors, to say the least – so any tool to make it more of a science is a friend of mine). My only tip is to double check everything ten times before drilling. And see those white blobs on the template on the left? Those are small pieces of masking tape that we used to surround “the good holes” (the ones we were using) so we didn’t accidentally drill into the one to the left or the right.
We also realized that using a small piece of scrap wood would shift all of the handles a smidge closer to the edge of the door, which we realized we liked best (after holding the handle in various places on the template). So we used this scrap wood piece…
… for marking each door with a pencil…
Then John drilled a small pilot hole first (to make sure he was going straight into our marked dot and ensure the wood wouldn’t crack or splinter). Then we went back through with a larger drill bit that would allow the screw that was provided with our hardware to slide right on through.
By some miracle, everything ended up looking nice and even. Whew. You know how sometimes when you reuse something (ex: our oak cabinets from the early 80’s) you think it’ll somehow be wonky or look cheap after something like a paint job? I’m happy to report that they look so solid and amazing. We had completely new cabinets in our first house’s kitchen (to the tune of 7K – ouch!) and we’re just as happy with these. I guess sometimes solid oak from 30 years ago is just as good as solid oak from today. Haha.
Oh and our new hardware is from here for $3.24 per handle. We love the way the satin nickel looks with our stainless appliances (and we think the soft gray backsplash will only add to the fun. We got all the same hardware for every door and drawer, but just placed them horizontally on drawers and vertically on doors. Speaking of money, here’s our entire budget breakdown:
- Wood filler (Elmer’s ProBond Professional Strength Wood Filler from Home Depot): $7
- Primer (we used Zinsser’s Smart Prime from a local Benjamin Moore store: $22
- Benjamin Moore’s Advance paint (in Cloud Cover in a satin finish): $40 (thanks to a coupon)
- All new hardware (see that link above): $84
- All new hinges (from a local hardware store here called Pleasant’s): $89
- Hardware templates (by Liberty Hardware from Home Depot): $7
- Total cabinet makeover total: $249
Not bad when you compare that to the 7K total of the new white cabs that we selected for our first house’s much smaller kitchen. Le yikes. And we love that we added an entire peninsula with secondhand cabinets for under $95 (one of them was even free) – which is definitely one of those DIY coups that makes ya proud. All that storage and extra workspace is already coming in handy.
Anyway, to get back the whole putting-the-room-back-together thing, after we added the hardware, we just needed to reattach the hinges…
… and enjoy the view (don’t mind the clashy dishwasher- we’ll install our stainless one after we lay the cork floors so they’ll run underneath it).
I’ve totally been doing that thing where you spend way more time in a room than necessary, just staring at things. I keep gravitating towards the kitchen (ex: Clara, let’s go read this book on the floor next to the refrigerator!).
Oh and here’s a shot of how things look with the natural oak color inside the cabinets while the doors and fronts are painted. We don’t mind the two tone look at all, and this way we can toss things in there and pull them out without worrying about scratching or peeling paint (we did the same thing in our first kitchen and in our office built-in cabinets, and they really hold up nicely). Our tip would be to just keep a nice clean line around the frames when you prime/paint them (using a small foam roller sort of does that for you). That way it looks intentionally two-toned and not crazy-sloppy when you open the door. And yes, that is a slide out cutting board. Our cabinets may be old, but they still have their tricks. Haha.
For those who can’t watch the video above to see my shot of the painted cabinets up close, the picture below might shed a little light on the whole oak-grain thing. Using high quality primer and good self-leveling paint helps hide a lot although it doesn’t guarantee 100% invisible grain (we don’t see any evidence of grain on the oak cabinets in the office but do see a hint of it on the kitchen cabinets, so it probably just depends how much grain your cabinets have to begin with). We don’t mind painted wood that looks like painted wood though, so a little grain is ok with us, as long as the paint is nice and even and glossy.
Words can’t express how much additional function/workspace our little peninsula added to the kitchen. It’s amazing to think that none of these cabinets were here before our makeover! And the fact that we gained a 3 x 5′ counter on that peninsula already makes eating/baking/spreading out and doing crafts there a regular occurrence.
We mentioned in this post that two of the retrofitted cabinets were 100% seamless, and it’s these babies in the corner. We don’t think Sherlock Holmes himself could tell, even with his nose an inch away from them. Hurrah!
As I mentioned here, the three other retrofitted doors are tad less than perfect. By this I mean if you look at them from an inch away for five minutes (bobbing your head back and forth to catch the light bouncing off of them) two out of ten people might notice a tiny seam. The cabinet hanging above the cereal jars in the photo below is one of them. See how it’s almost impossible to pick up from far away…
But when you get super close and the light hits it just the right way you might be able to catch a super subtle horizontal line? In person it’s so unnoticeable that we can’t decide if it’s worth doing anything about, but we’ll keep you posted if we decide to sand them one more time and use some sort of buildable primer and a few more coats of paint to hopefully make them as perfect as the two corner cabinet doors are.
I don’t know why I love this shot but I do. John’s totally my hero for figuring out how to build in the fridge like that. Mah man.
Oh my gosh, can you even believe that room looked like this last December when we moved in? In case you can’t tell, it’s hard for me to wrap my brain around that.
The doorway to the dining room definitely helps bring the light in – and the glossier cabinets and bright white counters definitely brighten things up too.
Here’s the other side of Dark City:
And the same view now that I’m the Mayor of BrightVille!
Of course there’s still tons to do, like…
- hang our backsplash tile
- add floating shelves & a range hood
- redo all the lighting (two pendant lights over the peninsula + inset lights in the cooking area)
- install our mocha cork floors (can’t wait to balance out the brightness with some rich contrast!)
- install the new dishwasher
- add quarter-round and crown molding
- possibly tweak our stools (we’re waiting for the room to take shape a bit more)
…but it’s definitely progress. Hooray, progress. So who’s about to embark on a cabinet painting adventure of their very own? I hope this post full of details (and especially that little video we whipped up) come in handy! Have fun and don’t forget to make up words (might I recommend putty brush?).
Update: Our painted cabinets are still holding up great. Check out a little update post here.
Psst – Wanna know where we got something in our house or what paint colors we used? Just click on this button:
Carrie Hriblan says
I would like to re-paint my kitchen cabinets. Currently, I have oak cabinets (probably cheap ones) that just have a little polyurethane on them. I have really enjoyed the pictures of the two toned cabinets. I love the tan and blue (earth tones). I’d also like to repaint my counter tops and put in a back splash. Our top set of cabinets have the arc in them and the bottoms are just plain squares. Do you have any suggestions on where I should begin? I Love your website by the way! :-)
YoungHouseLove says
I would just follow this tutorial when it comes down to where to begin- starting with bringing home swatches to see what you like best! Good luck!
xo,
s
Nena says
First, it looks great. Second, I would like to do a similar project on a much smaller kitchen, but don’t have two weeks. Could you compress the steps a bit by working in the morning and then the evening? Any thoughts would be great!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, in our first house we primed and painted all of the cabinets in two days (one day of sanding/puttying/prep and one day of priming and painting – then after everything dried we just put it back up).
xo,
s
Reena says
This is way delayed response but I found this particular post because I’m looking to paint our built-ins. Being pregnant and having a 1 year old running around, definitely looking for low-VOC and quick drying. Sort of took oil-based primer off our list. After a bad experience with Home Depot’s recommendation (paint and primer in one), I went to a local paint store which happened to be a Sherwin Williams
The guy there recommended ProClassics Low VOC Waterborne Interior Acrylic (in semi-gloss, though it comes in all finishes). I was skeptical at his “no prime, no sand” song so I asked him to put some on a shelf I’d brought. He was also saying it was “self-leveling” to limit bubbles, brush strokes, etc left behind by novice (ahem, us) painters.
He glopped on a thick layer and left behind heavy brush strokes and sent me on my way to wait for it to dry. I was hugely skeptical. Two hours later, totally flat, beautiful gloss, and you could even see some of the pits and character of the underlying wood. I was totally impressed and no bleed-through at all.
Any experience/thoughts?
YoungHouseLove says
Wow that sounds awesome! I would go for it!
xo,
s
Rob says
We just started this project and so far so good.
Its been wicked hot here in S.C. Plus, I’m chubby, so its worse.
I definitely wasn’t feeliin’ sanding the doors out in the garage(hot!) or in our sun room (hotter!). To keep down the dust, I just slid my doors inside a clear lawn and leaf bag and sanded away. I was able to see my work, the bag caught what needed catching, and I didn’t get all shvitzy. Win, win!…win. You’re welcome America.
YoungHouseLove says
So smart!
xo
s
Julia says
Thank you for this post! We’re doing this project and I’m loving the results. Ben Moore Advance paint is awesome! Love your house, especially all your area rugs, btw. Keep up the great work!
Kim says
I’ve been referring back to this post a lot as we’re getting ready to paint our kitchen cabinets.
A contractor we know recommended that we just prime the doors, then paint them only once they were installed. He said we would definitely bang them up while we were installing them, so it would be easier to do that way. Did you consider that option, and if so, why did you decide against doing it that way?
P.S. Is there a way to search through the comments? I wanted to check to see if someone had already asked the same question…
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We’ve actually never heard of that! We didn’t bang them up, we just installed them slowly and were gentle! Seemed easier to get a nice thin and even coat with them laying down than being hung (I’d worry about drips and getting paint on the hinges, etc).
xo,
s
Rohitha says
Hi guys,
You did a fantastic job with your kitchen,can you tell me if the wood grain is still visible through the painted cabinets? Did u have to do anything to smooth it out?
Thanks
Rohitha
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, it’s slightly visible. If you check out this post there’s a detail shot that shows the grain and talks about that. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
Maria says
Hi! I don’t even remember how I found your blog months ago but
I read you very often since I also follow you in facebook. Just want to thank you for this how to paint your kitchen cabinets tutorial! I already told my family I will paint ours white… they didn’t make any comments, lol
Juge says
I have these yucky oak cabinets and want to paint them white (they look just like yours before you painted). I cleaned all the cabinets with STP, then used a deglosser, then lightly sanded. I did a sample on the inside of one of my cabinets and it really hasn’t covered well.
Any thoughts?
YoungHouseLove says
Are you using primer for that sample or paint? Definitely don’t skip primer and you can do two coats if you need and then the paint should be great!
xo,
s
Angela Kintner says
I am planning on painting my kitchen cabinets. Can you tell me why you used BM Advance Paint rather than an oil based enamel?
Also, with the BM Advanced paint and the technique brush/roll technique that you used, how smooth is the finish?
Thank you so much!
YoungHouseLove says
The finish is great! Very smooth. As for why we used it, it’s a brewer formula and it’s self leveling and low VOC ( oil is really stinky!)
xo,
s
Jessica says
Question? My cabinets are already painted white, but they really need a new coat. Would the same process apply? The current coat of paint is so thick, you can peal it right off. I’m thinking I need to sand the doors down pretty good. Would you agree?
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, I would follow this tutorial since you want a stable surface for the paint so it won’t peel.
xo,
s
Liza O'Jack says
Hi, Love this cabinet painting instructions! Very helpful and inspiring! I want to vamp up my kitchen. Is there a way I can ask for your opinion of my kitchen ideas? I want to paint my cabinet white and possibly paint the counter to stainless steel from Thomas. LMK.
Thanks!!
–Liza
YoungHouseLove says
That sounds really gorgeous! I say go for it!
xo,
s
Tara says
I plan on painting my cabinets in the next few days and knew exactly where to go for advice! Great tutorial – thank you! I’m a little concerned about using the advance paint since it is a new product – has it held up good for y’all so far? Does it chip/ scratch easily?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, it’s awesome! So far there’s not a chip or crack to be seen! We hear from lots of other folks who have used it and love it too!
xo,
s
Jenny says
I absolutely love your new kitchen – I’m planning to start painting our cupboards next weekend and absolutely love the “cloud cover”. My only questions is because I have white appliances (fridge and stove) do you think it’s too “off white” or would it still work? Thanks so much :)
YoungHouseLove says
I would bring home a ton of swatches (including Cloud Cover) and just hold it up and see how it reads in your space. It might work depending on the light, and if some other swatch looks better I’d just go with that one!
xo,
s
Leslie Wells says
Did you guys sand between coats? I’ve heard some people say that this is a good idea but didn’t know if it’s super necessary?
If I have a lot of grease build up on my cabinets should what should I clean them with that won’t interfere with the paint?
YoungHouseLove says
It never ever hurts but we usually don’t do it and just stick to thin and even applications so there aren’t any bumps or drips to sand. Good luck!
xo,
s
Nancy says
Looks amazing. After watching your videos, I think I just might be able to paint our cabinets. Thank you!
Stacey says
I realize this question is a bit belated, but I was looking back at this post because I really want to tackle our kitchen cabinets. My question is – our kitchen cabinet frames are not solid wood. Instead they’re lined on any exterior sides with thin strips of laminate (hopefully that description makes sense). I’m wondering whether we can sand/prime/paint the laminate strips the same way you would wood? Or do we need to treat them differently to ensure the paint adheres to them? Any advice would be appreciated!
Your kitchen looks beautiful – you must be loving it.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
I would ask a paint pro at a place like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams what they recommend for that. Hope it helps!
xo
s
Courtney says
Hey!
I’m planning on tackling my kitchen cabinets this winter…thanks for the tips! Did you guys use a poly or clear coat to protect the paint?!
YoungHouseLove says
Neither! This paint is formulated for cabs without needing a top coat (which can yellow or crack, so it’s nice to use something that’s all-in-one)
xo
s
Christina says
Hey guys! This question doesn’t pertain to painting cabinets…but to painting interior doors. Have ya’ll ever done this? If you have, do you remember what paint you used? Reason being, we painted our new interior doors (we replaced the awesome 1960’s hollow core doors that the previous owner cut the bottoms off to fit over the awesome shag carpe but now the wood floors are refinished they are SO high above the floor!) and now they make this terrible sticking, popping sound when we open them. I was wondering if the Benji Moore paint you used for cabs might do well ? It just seems as if the latex (low VOC) we used is sticking to itself…nothing like waking up the kiddos when you exit the loo :). Thanks for any help!! BTW…Granny sounds just awesome!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yeah, I think it’d be great for that. Good luck!
xo
s
Michelle M. says
Your post put the seed in my head back in January and now I am really ready to get this project done! I have cleaned, sanded and deglossed. Now I’m ready to prime. My question is why did you all choose the Smart Prime and not the Benjamin Moore Advance Primer? Does the Advance Primer block stains as well? I’m ready to prime and I have found myself paralyzed! You both are amaze-balls and I sincerely thank you for all of your DIY advice. Can’t wait for the book!!
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes, BM Advance primer would be awesome! Either one works. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
katie says
I am currently following this step by step on my cherry bathroom cabinets. Well…following it as closely as I can. I couldn’t find the exact primer at Home Depot, and my local Ben Moore looked at me like I was cray when I asked for “advanced” paint. So…I ended up with their Regal (I think?) in cloud cover. Everything seems to be going well so far, except that It is going to take me probably 5 coats to cover. Is that ok, or will it be too thick? Should I sand between coats?
YoungHouseLove says
Oh man, that sounds like it should work, but might be taking more coats. If it’s not smooth between coats I would sand, but if it’s nice I’d just keep up with the thin and even application.
xo
s
katie says
you are amazing for replying to me so quickly (at all really)! Thank you so much!
Ken says
Brushing Putty by Fine Paints of Europe (expensive!) covers the grain and makes the difference between a paint job and a professionally applied, factory-looking finish.
Tina says
I’m sad that I’m just now seeing this post! I have already started repainting our bathroom cabinet our guest bathroom (to update the look w/out spending tons of money!). Not sure what the cabinets are made of–but the house was built in ’95 and the previous owners painted them. We are going with black. I did sand all of the doors and the frames, but I did not use a foam brush, just a high quality paint brush. Should I go over it with a foam brush? Or will the paint look too thick? We also chose a paint from a home improvement store–this could be an issue as well! Thanks for any feedback you can provide!
YoungHouseLove says
Nah, I think you’re ok. A brush can work just as well as a foam roller as long as you didn’t goop it on (doesn’t sound like you did). Good luck!
xo,
s
Anjuli says
My husband and I are redoing our kitchen cabinets over the next two weeks, and looking at knobs/handles for our new cabinets. I noticed in your first house you had a combination of knobs and handles, in your current house you have only handles.
Do you prefer handles? And if so, why?
YoungHouseLove says
We didnt mind it either way- we just saw these handles and liked them this time, but we loved the pulls and handles at the old house too!
xo
s
Rob says
Quick question for you guys, did you fill the holes in the cabinets/frame for the hinges as well as the old hardware? I know you had all new hinges, but just wondering if you used the old holes with the new hinges.
Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Good question! I think we were able to use the old holes for the hinges so we didn’t fill those but we filled the cabinet hardware holes since those changed.
xo
s
Angela Kintner says
I’m sitting here looking at the ‘cloud cover’ swatch from BM. Trying to decide which white to go with for my cabinet overhaul. I like your kitchen in pictures but wonder how true to color the pics are on the monitor. Any tips on how to pick the best color? Please help me before I go insane!
YoungHouseLove says
I would get a test pot of that and a few others and paint it on poster board pieces of white paper and tape them up on the cabinets and stand back and see which one you like. Fool proof!
xo
s
Angela Kintner says
Thanks Sherry! You are awesome.
YoungHouseLove says
Aw, good luck with everything Angela!
xo
s
shelley says
Your kitchen looks amazing! My husband and I just moved and pained our kitchen cabinets. I watched your tutorials and wrote down everything you used and now we are one coat away from finishing!! I have one question though, how do you get the latex paint to keep from sticking? We’ve already had problems with the dry areas sticking to other dry areas and I’ve had experience with latex sticking to stuff and pullig off paint. Any suggestions? / what have you all done to keep it from happening?
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, are things touching while you’re painting! I would keep that from happening for sure! You want it all to be 100% cure and dry before things touch so paint doesn’t pull off like that!
xo
s
Caroline says
Thanks, YHL! I’ve always loved this post, but after reading every.single.word. a billion times, we’re giving it a shot on our own kitchen this weekend! Fingers crossed!
YoungHouseLove says
Good luck Caroline! You can do it!
xo
s
Rachel says
Hi Sherry,
I’m currently repainting my kitchen cabinets (all 64 of them!!) and am not liking the “paint” feeling that it finishes with – it’s not as shiny and slick as un painted cabinets. You guys introduced me to Minwax for other projects and I love that it provides that nice finish – did you consider using that for the cabinets or anything similiar? If you didn’t, why not? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Sealing cabinets after painting them isn’t what the pros do just because it can yellow or crack or have bubbles, so just getting a glossier better quality paint (ex: Ben Moore Advance paint in semi-gloss) will hopefully help give you that shiny and slick feeling (we did satin, so we have a lower sheen). Hope it helps!
xo
s
Lauren says
So, I’ve been reading your blog for a few years now and this is my very first comment! I absolutely LOVE checking your new posts each day..it gives me a lot of inspiration and encouragement to tackle projects on my own. I love seeing these posts about painting cabinets and trim. I’ve finally decided to paint all the oak-colored trim in our house, white. You have several projects you’ve done along the way…what kind/color of paint/primer would you recommend as of today? I’ve heard things about using Oil-Based primer and then painting over that with Semi-Gloss regular latex, in whichever color you choose…but I’m nervous to work with oil-based. I also have no clue where to start with choosing the right color! How long do you normally wait between coats? Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)
YoungHouseLove says
This exact mix of products in this post are our favorite! It’s the good stuff, so if you see us deviate it’s because we’re painting something we think is less precious, but for the cabinets we spared no expense. As for how long to wait, just read the can (BM Advance has awesome info on the can for you). Good luck- you can do it!
xo
s
Kim Gallagher says
We are just starting this project in our kitchen this weekend and would like to thank you for the inspirational tutorial. Strangely enough, I couldn’t find deglosser at Home Depot…two people directed me toward strippers and that just didn’t seem right. Anyway,we’re hoping our BMoore store has some in stock, but if not, what do you suggest? Is this an absolutely necessary step?
YoungHouseLove says
I would check with Ben Moore since I think they should have it! If not I’d ask a pro there what they recommend (they tend to be really on top of that stuff). Good luck!
xo
s
Melissa M says
Hi there,
Great tutorial. I am wondering if you had to sand between coats? I just bought some Advance Glossy paint for a wood dresser…
YoungHouseLove says
We just put it on super thin so it’s not drippy or bumpy and then we don’t find the need to sand.
xo
s
Kara says
We are trying to do the same thing with our cabinets. Do you remember how much primer and how much paint you ended up needing? More than 1 can each? We’re trying to get all the same products you used, but that primer and paint are only available if we order them online! Hope our kitchen transformation is half as impressive as yours! :)
YoungHouseLove says
Oh no, not even half a can of each. Definitely couldn’t have done it with a quart though. Hope it helps!
xo
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Larissa says
I’m sure you’ve probably answered this somewhere…
Would you do go through the same process with cabinets that are already painted that need to be repainted?
Thanks!!!
YoungHouseLove says
Yup, every step is still necessary. Hope it helps!
xo,
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Larissa says
Never mind! I just saw your answer to the same question. Thanks!!
Crystal says
I followed your directions, exactly and I’m having issues with the paint scraping off :(. It is so frustrating. Did yours do this at all? Do you put a clear coat finish on? I don’t know what to do, they look so pretty. Well, except for the paint scraping off.
YoungHouseLove says
Weird! Were yours painted before? If so, it’s possible they used oil-based paint and yours was water based so it’s flaking off from a chemical reaction. Otherwise I would just ask if you used deglosser and sanded them all before using the exact primer we mentioned since those three thing really seem to help with adhesion. Hope it helps!
xo
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ara jane says
we are having some bookshelves/cabinets painted and are debating with our handyman about what kind of paint to use. he says that only oil-based paints will hold up over time for cabinets, but we feel pretty strongly about using something less toxic and stinky. since it’s now been a while since you painted these puppies, i’m wondering if you’re still happy with the paint. has it held up to wear and tear and clara/burger abuse? thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Over a year later and not a chip or a crack! They’re holding up so well – we were just talking about how happy we are with them. And we’re tough on our cabinets. I can only vouch for the exact same primer and paint we used here though (a friend of mine used a different paint from another brand and within a few weeks it started chipping, ack!!). Hope it helps!
xo
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Tara at Padded Tush Stats says
This looks amazing! Do you mind if I ask how much it costs to paint cabinets if I have absolutely no supplies or paint? I have no idea how to budget this but totally want to do it!
YoungHouseLove says
Hmm, I would just run to the hardware store and price everything out and add it up. It really depends on how fancy of a brush you get, there are different roller arms to choose from, etc. I’d guess that it would be hard to spend over $200 just painting cabinets (of course that doesn’t include the hinges and hardware you buy, which definitely can vary greatly in price). Hope it helps!
xo
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Autumn says
This was the first thing I viewed on your page and it inspired me to do my own cabinets (huge pain), but I have now started a blog to keep track of my home endeavors as well as my black whole of debt, so thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
Aw thanks Autumn! Congrats and happy blogging!
xo
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Ann says
We are painting our lovely 80s style builder basic oak cabinets white using your tutorial-so excited for light and bright! We have a one year old, so I’m a little concerned about the dust from sanding the cabinet frames. Did you use a palm sander or just sand paper for that? And what are your anti-dust tricks?
YoungHouseLove says
We taped off the whole room so it was in a bubble so none of the dust could get everywhere. That way it was contained and we kept Clara out of that area. We also sanded the doors in a sealed off sunroom (using a palm sander). Hope it helps!
xo
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Danielle says
Hi Sherry & Jon!
I was wondering what I should do differently about painting/refinishing my kitchen cabinets if they are not made of oak but of that cheap particle board instead? Isnt that a very different process? Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
I would bring a door or a drawer to the paint shop (like Benjamin Moore) and ask the paint pro there what they recommend. Hope it helps!
xo
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Tamara says
I keep seeing pins about using liquid deglosser instead of sanding cabinets. What’s your take on this? I’ve been following your blog for a couple years and notice that you spend a lot of time sanding. We’ll be moving in July (5 more months!!) and first thing I’ll be doing is painting the kitchen and the cabinets. I want to do it right though, as this will be a fairly permanent change until we can save up to gut it completely (if ever). Thanks!
YoungHouseLove says
We actually use both steps (sanding and liquid deglosser) on our cabinets because we think each is extra insurance that your paint job will hold to the wood and not scrape or chip off as easily. So our thought is that you should do both if you have the time / money to do so, but if you’re in a situation where you can’t – like you live in an apartment or condo and don’t have space to sand – then you could skip the sanding step. But since we haven’t relied on liquid deglosser alone yet we prefer to do the sanding step whenever possible, just to be sure.
-John
Holly says
Hey Guys…We have oak cabinets in our kitchen, too. We want to sell our house and are thinking about updating our kitchen to help in re-sale. We are skeptical of painting the cabinets because of the ‘grain-showing’thru’ thing…. and our contractor suggested getting new doors…but painting the rest of the trim and cabinet parts that are left. Do you think that would look even more strange? With fresh new doors and other parts painted? Ugh…Your cabinets look great, I just wish I could look into the future and see ours done. Thanks in advance for your advice. :)
YoungHouseLove says
I totally think you could go either way. If you use good paint (we love Benjamin Moore Advance) it can look pro if you do it all, or you could use Advance for the backs and then get new doors and that would work too! Good luck!
xo
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Betsy Clark says
Looks fantastic!! I love the bar stools, can you tell me where you found them and what they are called?
YoungHouseLove says
They were from a school supply store! Here’s that post for ya (the name is in the screen grab of the stool purchase): https://www.younghouselove.com/2011/12/stool-boom/
xo
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Jenn says
Hey, guys
My husband has been painting our cabinets white. He’s almost done and he’s not happy with his work. He’s seriously been busting his butt and I feel bad for him.
Basically the doors have a lot of grain on some of them. He followed every step, sanding, sanding and sanding again. Priming. He’s a perfectionist. I don’t think they look that bad and I’m a perfectionist too. (Until 2 years ago I was a full-time Art Director – now I’m a SAHM)
Do you have any tips? It looks like some of your cabinets *maybe* have some grain on them as well?? We used the same technique and paint you did.
Thanks!
PS – I love your book! Got mine for Christmas.
YoungHouseLove says
Oh yes ours have a hint of grain but we don’t mind them looking like painted wood (we don’t want them to look plastic or anything!) so the key for us was just keeping it looking smooth and consistent. Using the exact self leveling paint (Adbance by Benjamin Moore) really seemed to help!
xo,
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Danielle says
Hi guys!
I was wondering what steps would be different, or do you think its even possible to have a good turnout in painting kitchen cabinets that are not real wood or oak but are just that cheap particle board? I worry that if I begin this project, the paint wont be able to stick to the particle board since its so cheaply made. Boo! Can ya’ll help me with this one?? Thanks so much, I love what you guys do and cant wait to buy the book!
-Danielle
YoungHouseLove says
I would bring a cabinet door or drawer with you to a paint pro (the people at Benjamin Moore tend to know more than Lowe’s/Home Depot in my experience) and see what they recommend. Hope it helps!
xo
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Kate says
Do you mind my asking how much primer and paint you needed for this project? I’m thinking of tacking a project (built-in cabinets & shelves) that I’m guessing are about 1/3 – 1/2 the area of your kitchen cabinets. Would a gallon of each be enough for that? Thank you!
YoungHouseLove says
Less than a gallon of each was all we needed! Better quality primer and paint goes further, so try to grab exactly what we used for the best results :)
xo
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Becca says
Hi! I LOVE everything you both have done in your old and current house. I’ve been stalking your blog for a couple years now and am somewhat (but not creepy) obsessed. Lol. :0) I am fixing up our kitchen right now and would LOVE to copy your cabinet handles. I followed the link with no luck. :0( I was wondering if you could tell me what they are called exactly by what company? (If you don’t mind sharing.) ;0D
YoungHouseLove says
Oh no! Hmm, now I forget everything about them,but I think if you scroll back through these comments (I know there are a lot) we mention the name of the maker and might even have an alternate link or a product name for you to google. Hope it helps!
xo
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