Comments on: How To Paint Furniture http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/ The Story Of Two Young People Falling In Love With Their First House Wed, 10 Mar 2010 04:16:37 -0500 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 By: YoungHouseLove http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-149419 YoungHouseLove Wed, 10 Mar 2010 02:22:16 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-149419 We would sand it all down as much as possible before priming it (since if your paint isn't adhered correctly, priming over that won't keep it from chipping). Then once you have it all sanded down (of course you can also use a chemical stripper but we like sandpaper because it's less stinky and messy) you can follow the oil-based primer, latex paint, Minwax top coat steps that are outlined above. Hope it helps! And good luck! xo, s

We would sand it all down as much as possible before priming it (since if your paint isn’t adhered correctly, priming over that won’t keep it from chipping). Then once you have it all sanded down (of course you can also use a chemical stripper but we like sandpaper because it’s less stinky and messy) you can follow the oil-based primer, latex paint, Minwax top coat steps that are outlined above. Hope it helps! And good luck!

xo,
s

]]> By: Heather S. http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-149407 Heather S. Wed, 10 Mar 2010 01:52:53 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-149407 I painted a a solid oak clawfoot table white(don't cringe) after lightly sanding. I'm already getting chipped paint, after only a few months. I applied a Minwax latex/water-based topcoat...I wish I would have known about the oil-based primer and not to use foam rollers. At this point, should I prime over the latex and repaint, or try to remove/strip all finishes and start over? Thanks, Heather I painted a a solid oak clawfoot table white(don’t cringe) after lightly sanding. I’m already getting chipped paint, after only a few months. I applied a Minwax latex/water-based topcoat…I wish I would have known about the oil-based primer and not to use foam rollers. At this point, should I prime over the latex and repaint, or try to remove/strip all finishes and start over?

Thanks,
Heather

]]> By: YoungHouseLove http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-144493 YoungHouseLove Mon, 08 Mar 2010 01:28:02 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-144493 Your best bet would be to sand everything down with 200 grit paper until it's nice and smooth and apply two to three very very very thin and even coats of the semi gloss or gloss latex paint (with a paint brush and not a roller) to salvage everything and end up with a nice glossy finish. Then be sure to let everything cure up and dry for days (at least three to five full days) before resting anything on the desktops or using the cabinets- and just to be safe you can wait a full week. Hope it helps! xo, s

Your best bet would be to sand everything down with 200 grit paper until it’s nice and smooth and apply two to three very very very thin and even coats of the semi gloss or gloss latex paint (with a paint brush and not a roller) to salvage everything and end up with a nice glossy finish. Then be sure to let everything cure up and dry for days (at least three to five full days) before resting anything on the desktops or using the cabinets- and just to be safe you can wait a full week. Hope it helps!

xo,
s

]]> By: Shannon http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-144489 Shannon Mon, 08 Mar 2010 01:12:27 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-144489 I have a client that had us build custom bookcases with built-in desks. My painter sprayed them with a latex eggshell paint (Benjamin Moore color mink in a Behr base). All was well until the cabinet maker put the doors on and messed up the surface of the desk. At this point the carpet was put in so spraying is no longer an option. The homeowner wanted a glass smooth desktop surface. When the carpenter added few doors he also messed up the painted surface. My painter sanded and then rolled on paint with a foam brush. Now we have a bubbly surface on the desktop and a few cabinet doors. There are also some knicks that need to be corrected. Can you advise on the best way to fix this issue without changing paint or having to repaint all of the cabinets? I am trying to keep the homeowner from having a bad experience. Thank you so much for your help. I have a client that had us build custom bookcases with built-in desks. My painter sprayed them with a latex eggshell paint (Benjamin Moore color mink in a Behr base). All was well until the cabinet maker put the doors on and messed up the surface of the desk. At this point the carpet was put in so spraying is no longer an option. The homeowner wanted a glass smooth desktop surface. When the carpenter added few doors he also messed up the painted surface. My painter sanded and then rolled on paint with a foam brush. Now we have a bubbly surface on the desktop and a few cabinet doors. There are also some knicks that need to be corrected. Can you advise on the best way to fix this issue without changing paint or having to repaint all of the cabinets? I am trying to keep the homeowner from having a bad experience. Thank you so much for your help.

]]> By: YoungHouseLove http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-144448 YoungHouseLove Sun, 07 Mar 2010 18:20:25 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-144448 Hey Yen, No worries! We think sanding down just that latex paint and a bit of the second coat of primer (until it's smooth and there are no longer obvious brushstrokes) should be just fine. Just try to evenly sand so you don't hit veneer in some spots while others are more shallow. It shouldn't be that hard though. You'll do great! As for a how-to-paint video, we'll definitely put it on our (admittedly very long) to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion! Here's hoping we can tackle it someday... xo, s

Hey Yen,

No worries! We think sanding down just that latex paint and a bit of the second coat of primer (until it’s smooth and there are no longer obvious brushstrokes) should be just fine. Just try to evenly sand so you don’t hit veneer in some spots while others are more shallow. It shouldn’t be that hard though. You’ll do great!

As for a how-to-paint video, we’ll definitely put it on our (admittedly very long) to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion! Here’s hoping we can tackle it someday…

xo,
s

]]> By: Yen http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-144425 Yen Sun, 07 Mar 2010 14:57:03 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-144425 I used to think that redesigning a home would cost big bucks, but your blog has really inspired me to find cheap ways to update my home. :) My first project was to paint a veneer coffee table black. After lightly sanding and priming, I walked away to wait for it to dry. My dad, trying to be helpful, saw that it was dry and applied *another* coat of primer (not sure why...), but of course he did it in the *other* direction of the grain. So now, after 3 coats of latex paint, the brush strokes are still very obvious. I was going to hand sand it down a bit (with ~220 grit paper) and then apply another coat of latex paint. Do you think this will be suffice or do I have to sand down to the veneer (which I'm nervous to do) and prime/paint over again? Thanks in advance for your help! You guys are so sweet to always answer everyone's questions. Also, would there be any chance of you doing a "how-to paint" video? No matter how much I read about the right technique to paint, I keep messing it up. I think seeing it done will make it click better in my head, and your videos are always so helpful. Thanks again! I used to think that redesigning a home would cost big bucks, but your blog has really inspired me to find cheap ways to update my home. :) My first project was to paint a veneer coffee table black. After lightly sanding and priming, I walked away to wait for it to dry. My dad, trying to be helpful, saw that it was dry and applied *another* coat of primer (not sure why…), but of course he did it in the *other* direction of the grain. So now, after 3 coats of latex paint, the brush strokes are still very obvious. I was going to hand sand it down a bit (with ~220 grit paper) and then apply another coat of latex paint. Do you think this will be suffice or do I have to sand down to the veneer (which I’m nervous to do) and prime/paint over again? Thanks in advance for your help! You guys are so sweet to always answer everyone’s questions.

Also, would there be any chance of you doing a “how-to paint” video? No matter how much I read about the right technique to paint, I keep messing it up. I think seeing it done will make it click better in my head, and your videos are always so helpful. Thanks again!

]]> By: YoungHouseLove http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-141697 YoungHouseLove Mon, 01 Mar 2010 16:21:57 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-141697 No way! Avoid those at all costs. They rile up the poly and make bubbles and imperfections. Definitely use a high quality brush and apply thin thin thin coats (as thin as an eggshell or a piece of paper). You only get brush strokes if it's too thick or you're not waiting for it to fully dry before going over it again (no touching up certain parts a minute later because it'll start to dry and you'll get brush drag marks). Hope it helps! xo, s

No way! Avoid those at all costs. They rile up the poly and make bubbles and imperfections. Definitely use a high quality brush and apply thin thin thin coats (as thin as an eggshell or a piece of paper). You only get brush strokes if it’s too thick or you’re not waiting for it to fully dry before going over it again (no touching up certain parts a minute later because it’ll start to dry and you’ll get brush drag marks). Hope it helps!

xo,
s

]]> By: Lindsey http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-141695 Lindsey Mon, 01 Mar 2010 16:17:17 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-141695 WoW! What an awesome blog. I'm doing the same thing-making over my first home one piece of furniture at a time. Right now I'm working on a large bedroom set. I bought it on craigslist and sanded it down, primed it, and painted it a greyish black. Now comes the protective finish...but I'm scared! I bought polycrylic by Minwax and have read and reread the instructions. I have a quality synthetic brush; but, am afraid when going over the detailed doors of the armoire or the long legnth of the dresser top that I will have hideous brush stroles. Any suggestions? Foam brush? Roller? Help?! WoW! What an awesome blog. I’m doing the same thing-making over my first home one piece of furniture at a time. Right now I’m working on a large bedroom set. I bought it on craigslist and sanded it down, primed it, and painted it a greyish black. Now comes the protective finish…but I’m scared! I bought polycrylic by Minwax and have read and reread the instructions. I have a quality synthetic brush; but, am afraid when going over the detailed doors of the armoire or the long legnth of the dresser top that I will have hideous brush stroles. Any suggestions? Foam brush? Roller? Help?!

]]> By: YoungHouseLove http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-141658 YoungHouseLove Mon, 01 Mar 2010 14:35:06 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-141658 We would just use a tiny craft brush (from Michael's instead of Home Depot) to get into all those little areas, and maybe you can use a bit of painter's tape to stop the drips from getting on the seat, but stick it to your pants like ten times so it's "linty" and therefore a lot less sticky so it won't damage the refinishing job. Hope it helps! xo, s

We would just use a tiny craft brush (from Michael’s instead of Home Depot) to get into all those little areas, and maybe you can use a bit of painter’s tape to stop the drips from getting on the seat, but stick it to your pants like ten times so it’s “linty” and therefore a lot less sticky so it won’t damage the refinishing job. Hope it helps!

xo,
s

]]> By: mary http://www.younghouselove.com/2009/02/how-to-paint-furniture/comment-page-6/#comment-141648 mary Mon, 01 Mar 2010 13:09:43 +0000 http://www.thisyounghouse.com/?p=7657#comment-141648 I've almost completed my dining room furniture project, just one more question. I refinished the seats of the chairs to reflect the hard oak, painted the legs and back in black. I am now down to the spindles on the back where they meet up with the refinished oak seat..... how do I painted the tiny spindles where they meet up with the seat? I fear if I tape the seat area it will possibly damage the newly refinished wood, but I also fear a dribble of black paint on it too! Suggestion, please. Thanks a bunch! I’ve almost completed my dining room furniture project, just one more question. I refinished the seats of the chairs to reflect the hard oak, painted the legs and back in black. I am now down to the spindles on the back where they meet up with the refinished oak seat….. how do I painted the tiny spindles where they meet up with the seat? I fear if I tape the seat area it will possibly damage the newly refinished wood, but I also fear a dribble of black paint on it too! Suggestion, please. Thanks a bunch!

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