How To Paint Furniture
Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table or any other wood piece, the steps are pretty much the same. For example, take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone):
Gussying things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar table for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough of the eye candy. On with the tutorial…
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish. Give the entire piece a good once over with a roller or paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone, in fact it will probably look thinner in some areas but as long as the entire piece is covered it’s ready for step three.
Step 3- Use a fresh roller or a paint brush to apply two coats of latex paint (semi-gloss or flat, the finish is up to you). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the result is always fabulous and stain/bubble free. The real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, foam rollers- especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man, even over regular high quality wool or polyester rollers. We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a leaf of paper) which will dramatically cut down on any visible brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones.
Step 4- This step is optional, but we strongly recommend brushing on two thin coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and a glossy sheen that looks oh-so-luxe). The only brand that we’ve ever used with unmatched success is Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” so that’s our recommendation. Of course we added the poly to our white table above, and we even poly’d the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 48 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. This might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not the exact tone or shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black or a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project you can confidently take on in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (laminate, melamine, etc) you should definitely visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there, so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood and veneered wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul. Good luck!
Psssst- In the market for a handy dandy cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
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Comments
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I acquired an early Canadian chest of draws that has been painted many times with thick paint. I would like to strip all the paint off and start over. I have tried several different strippers and all I have accomplished was long strips of paint off. I am wondering if sanding may be the rest route to go AND how long that would take?
Hey Pipsi,
You’re definitely on the right track with the sanding idea- it’s exactly what we would recommend. The idea is that you would sand everything down until you have one solid, unwavering plane to work with (a common mistake is thinking that if things are a bit uneven or jagged that a coat of paint will cover it- in fact, it will magnify any issues so prep is the most important step of the repainting process). I would recommend a hand sander (not very expensive or hard to use- you just plug it in and let it do the work for you). Hopefully it’ll speed up the process tremendously (and you can even rent tools at Home Depot or Lowe’s if you don’t want to purchase them for one project- or borrow from a friend). Hope it helps! Good luck…
xoxo,
Sherry
Hi Sherry. I’ve sanded down our pedestal kitchen table and primed it with an oil based primer. I’m not sure how long I have to wait though before I can paint. It says 1 hour recoat (for primer), but I got primer on the label and am not sure how long to wait to paint.
Thanks!
Brandi
Hey Brandi,
Good question! Both primer and paint should be applied in thin even coats, so assuming you didn’t glop on the primer you should be good to paint in about 2 hours. It’s important to note that primer can feel tacky forever, so waiting until it’s bone dry might be hopeless. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
I want to redo a dresser and nightstand we already have to go in my daughter’s nursery. Both pieces are in excellent condition but are a dark blondish finish that doesn’t go with my vision for the nursery. Is my best bet to paint them white using your technique above or is it possible to redo them in an espresso color that is so popular now? If so, do you happen to know if it would be a similar technique to what you’ve described? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated as I’ve only begun researching how to take on this project.
Hey Elisha,
Staining the dresser and nightstand would involve a bit more prep (you would have to sand each piece down the the bare wood so it can absorb the stain, while painting just involves a coat of primer and then adding the color right over the piece so you don’t have to worry about the color being absorbed into the wood) but it’s really your call!
I would suggest dropping by Home Depot or Lowe’s and asking the paint specialist there to show you some stains and explain how to apply them to see if it’s something you’d like to take on. Either way, good luck with everything!
xo,
Sherry
We want to paint my kitchen table and chairs black. We’ve sanded the chairs and table,what kind of primer and paint should we use do you? What do you think about using a paint sprayer to apply the paint?
Hey Kay,
Any oil-based primer followed by a latex paint should do the trick. For black, we like Glidden’s Dark Secret. Try stopping in at Home Depot or Lowe’s and talking to someone in the paint department for more info! As for a sprayer, it always makes for a great finished product, just do some test sprays on newspaper or cardboard to be sure you don’t have globbing or dripping and try not to stand too close to the piece and apply too much of a heavy spray (which will cause drips and pooling in the paint). The real foolproof way for beginners is definitely a good ‘ol high quality angled brush. Hope it helps! Good luck…
xoxo,
Sherry
Hello Sherry,
I have been so inspired by your blog, that I have been writing down all of my household long and short term goals, collecting photos, and desperately looking for ways to finish rooms with low cost, that is until I can afford what I really want. Well I have been in my house for two years, it still looks like we just moved in, particially hung pictures, unfinished paint jobs, and the list goes on. Well I am so excited to tell you that I found three counter stools for my kitchen at a garage sale for $10. I was so excited because I could envision how I want them to look. My questions to you are as follows; 1. The base is metal, How can I refinish them. 2. There was a little rust under the seat where the seat swivels, what can I do to restore a smooth swivel and refinish the wood seat and wooden back rest black?
Inspired by Young House Love,
Connie
Hey Connie,
Thanks for the kinds words! We’re psyched to hear about your fabulous stool score. The metal base can easily be spray painted any color that you’d like (just tape off the seat or better yet, remove it by unscrewing it from below). And as for the rusted seat swivel, sanding the rust down and using a bit of oil to “grease” the swivel mechanism should help. Good luck!
xoxo,
Sherry
Hello! I am a huge fan of your blog and had a question I thought I would run by you…
I bought a house with the original kitchen cabinets (circa 1992) and they are the cheapo plastic-type wood cabinets with the fake wood grain (and the horrible gold knobs!) I would like to paint them white. Which route should I take?
Hey Allison,
You should be good if you follow the oil-based primer followed by two coats of latex paint approach. Remember of course to remove your hardware first (you can follow these simple steps on our How To Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets post). Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xoxo,
Sherry
Help! My project is an old secretary desk with a drop down table. I applied two layers of water based primer expecting to paint the following weekend. Then I learned from a Home Depot salesperson that I need to paint over primer within 12 hours. So the next weekend I added another coat of primer and waited 1 hr. before applying 2 coats of water based latex satin paint, waiting 4 hours between the coats of paint as instructed on the paint can. I painted all of the exterior of the secretary and did not touch it for a week, enabling the paint to dry thoroughly before opening the drop down table to paint the inside desk area. However, when I opened the drop down table for it to rest on a ledge above the top drawer, the paint from both parts stuck, and now I will have to sand, re-prime, and repaint. But of course I have to wait until the inside desk area dries first. I am afraid once pull up the drop down table, it will stick to the sides of the desk area even though I have waited another week for the inside to dry. I thought I’d try putting wax paper or parchment paper between the painted parts to keep the painted parts from being damaged.How long does it take for the dried paint to keep from sticking? Will I have to coat with the poly to keep from sticking? What did I do wrong?
Hey Linda,
We always recommend one coat of oil-based primer followed by two to three coats of latex paint applied with a brush or high quality wool roller (we prefer a brush for furniture). I think the reason your piece is stayed tacky/sticky is due to the two layers of water based primer (if one layer didn’t thoroughly dry before the second coat was applied, that would explain the stickage). Our best advice to you would be to sand it down and apply only one coat of oil-based primer and let that thoroughly dry and follow it with two thin thin thin thin thin coats of paint (allowing each coat to dry is key). As for the parchment paper, it sounds like it might stick to the paint, but it may be worth a shot. You might also want to call or visit your paint professional at Lowe’s, Home Depot or even Benjamin Moore for their advice. Hope it helps!
xoxo,
Sherry
Quick response! As for the first two coats of water based primer I applied two weeks ago, the can instructed me to wait an hour between coats. I waited maybe two hours between coats to be sure the first coat was dry. I worked indoors on a So. Calif. day of 75, low humidity! Same warm weather the following weekend when I added 1 layer of primer and 2 coats of paint. I used water based primer because the piece was too heavy for me to move it to the garage or outdoors and I didn’t want the lingering fumes for my dog to breathe. I have never painted a piece of furniture other than a wooden picture frame. I think I will buy a finished piece next time! LOL!
Hi Sherry,
I notice on Linda’s comment she was advised to paint within 12 hrs of using the water based primer, is the the same for oil based?
Thanks
Kay
Hey Kay,
Good question! We actually don’t know because we always follow our primer with our first thin coat of latex paint as soon as it’s dry (usually within 2-4 hours), but checking the label on the specific oil-based primer that you purchase (they’re all a bit different) should clear it right up and give you some additional direction. Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xoxo,
Sherry
I would like to paint a piece of furniture made of MDF. I purchased the item from the net and I am not “wild” about the treatment. Reportedly, it was sold as “hand painted”, It does have some type of protective coating. Should I follow the same procedure as wood painting i.e. sand, apply oil based primer, latex paint, etc?
Thanks for your help.
Lauren
Hey Lauren,
Yup. Sanding it, applying oil-based primer and then two coats of latex paint (maybe three if you need it) should be just the ticket. Hope it helps. Happy painting!
xoxo,
Sherry
Can the two coats of latex paint applied after the oil base primer be high gloss latex? Instead of semi-gloss
Hey Dane,
Yup, you can definitely pick your finish although we always recommend either semi-gloss or high gloss for the practicality that it offers (it’s a lot easier to wipe than flat or satin paint). One warning is that high gloss paint shows more imperfections since it’s extra reflective, so be sure to apply thin even coats to keep drips, bubbles, and brush strokes to a minimum. Happy painting!
xo,
Sherry
I purchased an unfinished wooden rocking chair for my grandson. I’d like to paint it a high gloss black and add touches of color with designs typical of Polish folk art (think, Polish Easter Egg Decorating).
I don’t know how to tackle this project. Should I paint all the base black first and paint the design on top? Thanks!
Hey Gina,
Yup, you definitely want to lay down a good foundation of black paint (using oil-based primer and a bunch of coats of black latex paint until you get good, deep coverage). You may want to use flat black latex paint as opposed to semi gloss so the colorful designs that you plan to paint on top of it will stick well. Then we’d recommend sealing everything with two very thin coats of clean water-based polyurethane (we only recommend the one we mention above by name as others can yellow your finish) for a long-lasting result. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate your suggestion about the flat black first….the sheen will come with the polyurethane at the end. I’ll follow your suggestions.
Gina
Hi Sherry –
First of all – love your blog! My husband and I just purchased our first home, and we are super excited about getting in there and making it our own (we will definitely be referring back to your “How To” page). I’m especially excited about getting started on my first ever craigslist furniture updating projects. I’m also a little intimidated! I have a question about a couple of pieces I picked up today. The first piece is a wood faux bamboo side/end table with a glass top. Right now it has a glossy sort of oak thing going on — I know I should sand until the glossiness is gone, then use some primer, and then paint. My question is: should I spray paint or paint with a paint brush? How do you guys decide what to use?
My second project will be a set of 8 Chippendale chairs (not the Chinese Inspired style, but the more traditional curvy style). Right now they are a glossy cream color, and I really want to paint them a bright white or some kind of light blue. I am super scared to start this project! Any advice? There are some definite groove details down the legs, and since I’ve never painted anything, I’m worried they will not look polished.
Thanks!
Tammy
Hey Tammy,
Good questions one and all! I would definitely say that you know more than you think (you realize that you have to sand things that are super glossy to get the shine down before priming- fabulous!). With that said I would actually recommend that you use a high quality angled brush to tackle both of your projects and apply thin even coats of oil-based primer (only one) and latex paint (probably 2-3) on each piece. I would definitely go with semi-gloss paint for both projects and probably forgo the top coat of poly since for chairs the semi-gloss is usually adequately wipe-able (it’s not like a tabletop that you want to be super glossy). The thing with spray paint is that you usually have a lot less control so you get thick and thin spots of paint and it’s very common to end up with unsightly drips. With a brush you have a lot more control and you can move slowly and surely and use it to get into all the little cracks and crevices. Thin, even coats are key! In other words, three thin coats are infinitely better than one heavy drippy coat. You definitely want to give each coat time to dry as well, which will keep things looking smooth (dragging a wet paint brush through half-dry paint to apply another coat makes for a sticky-icky mess). Hope it helps! You can do it! And the light blue idea for the chairs sounds lovely!
xo,
Sherry
Thanks so much! If the projects turn out well, perhaps I will share the “afters” with you guys! Thanks again, and have a great holiday weekend.
Really appreciate your blog. Found it all very helpful. Would you suggest a deglosser (sp?) be used on a shiny dining room table, buffet and 6 dining room chairs before applying the primer? I have used this product in years past when doing my kitchen cabinets and it gave me the surface I needed to make the paint adhere. The dining room set is from the 60′s or 70′s and is oriental in nature. I want to paint it all black with the exception of the burl wood that is on the back of the chairs. Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Pam
Hey Pam,
Sure, we definitely recommend a deglosser or a heavy sanding when it comes to pieces that are super shiny- just to give the primer/paint a good foundation. Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
Hey Melissa,
The base of our table came from Diversity Thrift here in Richmond, Virginia (the base came with a square top for around $30 and we actually used the old top to make the coffee table in the sunroom. Gotta love two tables for the price of one. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
I have a bedroom set (two tall chests and one dresser with mirror I want to refinish because it fits the room. It was pickled white, not sure what type wood. I think the drawer front look like oak but the sides of the dressers look like maple. At any rate, we have spend a lot of time with very poor results, sanding, priming with oil base primer, and staining. It will not accept the stain evenly and we were told by home depot to paint the furniture. But what color is the question. I can’t picture colors well. The floors are wood bamboo, the walls are a deep beige with an undertone of pink, the bed is a kingsize iron with touches of black,gold and silver. The bathroom is about to be redone with the same flooring a medium honey wood cabinets and granite countertops made of rainforest green (it’s green with petrified brown wood running thru it. Bedding is basic white. Please help I need the furniture back in the room! What colors should I consider?
Hey Deborah,
Picking paint colors is a really subjective thing. There’s definitely no right answer or perfect formula. I would consider a medium to dark brown color which would blend nicely with almost anything. You could also go with cream or white, which will work with the bedding and feel light and airy. Of course using an oil-based primer followed by two coats of thin semi-gloss paint will make everything nice and smooth and wipe-able (you wouldn’t want to just go with flat paint as it’s not as easy to keep clean). Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
Hi,
I would like o paint a Pottery Barn kids desk..it is currently white and I am going for an off white color. I am pretty sure it is not solid wood and currently it has a very slick and a bit glossy finish. Should I sand, oil prime then 2 coats of latex like you have suggested for others even if it is not all wood?! What if it is mdf? Thank very much.
Hey Haley,
Although painting MDF isn’t as foolproof and long-lasting as painting solid wood, your best bet is definitely a thorough sanding followed by oil-based primer and then two to three coats of latex paint. Hope it helps!
xo,
s
so, i have followed all of the steps, and used semi gloss on my sideboard………….but, i have brush strokes that are way obvious. should i continue applying light coats until it looks better……….please help:p
Hey Lisa,
If you’ve been applying thin and even coats of paint there are only two possible reasons for the obvious brush strokes: 1) your brush isn’t clean enough or high quality enough so it’s dragging paint and creating the marred finish or 2) you’re touching up spots on the sideboard minutes after going over them the first time (you want to apply one thin even coat and leave everything alone until it’s completely dry and ready for a second coat- going back and touching things up before it’s thoroughly dry will rough up the paint and result in brush strokes).
That being said, picking up a nice brand new angled brush, resisting the urge to touch things up mid-coat and waiting until everything is thoroughly dry should cure the issue. And a few more thin and even coats should even everything out under it. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Sherry, thanks so much…the last coat looked so much better!!!I really love your blog!!!! lisa
All this information has been unbelievably helpful. I’m getting ready to start my first refinishing project… a hope chest (and Craigslist score!) to be painted a creamy white and turned into a filing cabinet. When closed, it will do double duty as extra seating in my office. I can’t wait to get started.
I plan to use wood putty to level a few scratches, sand the entire piece, and prep with oil-based primer. My question is, what is the best way to clean up oil-based primer? I’ve been told paint thinner or mineral spirits is the way to go. What do you recommend? How can I use these products in a safe and environmentally friendly manner?
Thanks!
Hey Dana,
Mineral spirits are definitely our recommendation when it comes to cleaning up oil-based primer. We actually keep our container of it in the garage (which is detached) so we’re not polluting the indoor air that we breath with the fumes when we soak and rinse our brushes. It’s definitely best to use mineral spirits in an extremely well ventilated place (ie: outside) and when you finish up with the container of course take care to dispose of it in the special toxic containers at the recycling center or garbage depot near you (never toss them in with your regular trash). Hope it helps! And good luck with that chest/cabinet you’re about to whip up! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry
I am trying to repaint a dining room table set. I was told to use deglosser, once you apply the deglosser to the chairs, are you suppose to wash the deglosser off. On some areas of the chair, the deglosser has left a buildup? Thanks.
Hey Melanie,
You definitely want to read and follow the application directions on the deglosser that you purchased (every product is different) but we did find these general instructions that we hope will help:
Liquid deglosser is liberally applied with a soft rag, then wiped off with a dry rag. To smooth out a surface as well as degloss it before painting, try this trick: Use fine steel wool or a flexible sanding pad dipped in the deglosser to apply it, then wipe it off. Older oil based paints applied before 1980 are very likely to contain lead, and dry–sanding it creates potentially toxic dust. Wet-sanding with deglosser virtually eliminates the dust. While solvent deglossers do not have to be rinsed off, cleaning deglossers like TSP must be thoroughly rinsed prior to painting.
Here’s the link so you can read more of their tips (we found the “Misconceptions” and “Expert Insights” categories to be especially interesting). Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Hi! We just bought an old, somewhat scratched, bedroom set for my daughter. It is a blonde colored wood that looks like solid wood in some places and possibly laminate in other places. I was hoping to sand it down and paint it white but I’m not sure if I can do that on the laminate looking places. It mostly looks like laminate on the very top. What kind of primer and paint should I use? Also, what kind of brush should I use to paint? One last quesion, what’s the best way to minimize the appearance of the dings and scratches? Thank you so much for your help!
Hey Tiffani,
I think you’ll have the best luck sanding only the parts that are wood, filling in any dings and scratches with wood putty, waiting for it to thoroughly dry, priming the entire thing with oil-based primer (like Kilz) and following that with two to three thin and even coats of latex semi-gloss paint. As for the brush, any high quality angled brush will work, and if you have any questions about the primer or the wood filler or the brush when you’re at the store, the paint specialist can definitely help so don’t be shy- just ask away! Hope it helps! Good luck…
xo,
Sherry
Seeing your blog for the first time and really like it. Will be sharing with many others!
Have a set of craigslist bookcases that are blond veneer or laminate. Per your response much earlier this morning, I take it no sanding will be needed if I use oil primer and follow with latex paint…correct? I would like a glossy finish, so better to use gloss paint or a final poly coat?
Thank you for your time and all the helpful information.
Hey Mahala,
Unless there are obvious splinters or areas that need to be sanded, we’d definitely skip that step and go right to oil-based primer. Then we’d actually suggest full-gloss latex paint (as opposed to semi-gloss or poly) since it’s a bookcase so you don’t need the same poly protection that you would for a dining table… and you’ll get a super glossy shine. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
I’m going to be repainting some kitchen chairs. If they’re going to be covered with two coats of polyurethane anyway, does the paint finish really make a difference in terms of being able to easily wipe off spills? Also, how long do you recommend allowing coats to dry in between applications when the air is very humid?
Hey Shannon,
If you’re using a few thin coats of poly as the last step of your project then you don’t need to worry about the finish of the paint. And if the air is super humid I would recommend waiting at least 4 to 5 hours between coats- and the operative word is thin! Three thin coats is eons better than one drippy gooey one. Hope it helps. Happy painting…
xo,
s
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Hey Kat,
I would do my best to get in those grooves with the sandpaper (maybe wrap a thin sheet of metal flashing or even cardboard with sandpaper and use it to get into those cracks and crevices?). You’ll probably have no problem even if you don’t get in there and sand things down, but it’s always nice to be thorough. Hope it helps! Happy painting…
xo,
Sherry