How To Paint Furniture
Whether you’re interested in painting a chair, a table or any other wood piece, the steps are pretty much the same. For example, take this table that we built and subsequently painted along with the accompanying white chairs (which used to be a golden blond wood tone):
Gussying things up with a fresh coat of white paint took them from thrift store (where we got the table base) to Pottery Barn (which sells a similar table for 500 beans) in just a few hours.
But enough of the eye candy. On with the tutorial…
Step 1- Evaluate the surface of the piece that you’d like to paint. If it’s a sleek glossy surface (like varnished wood) you’ll want to gently sand the entire piece with 100 grit sandpaper). If it’s more of a dry chalky texture (like unfinished wood or flat paint) you can forgo the sandpaper and skip right to step two.
Step 2- Break out the oil-based primer to ensure that the paint sticks and no stains come through and ruin your finish. Give the entire piece a good once over with a roller or paint brush. This coat of primer doesn’t have to be perfectly even in tone, in fact it will probably look thinner in some areas but as long as the entire piece is covered it’s ready for step three.
Step 3- Use a fresh roller or a paint brush to apply two coats of latex paint (semi-gloss or flat, the finish is up to you). Many people mistakenly think that latex paint isn’t supposed to be applied over oil-based primer, but the result is always fabulous and stain/bubble free. The real painting no-no is applying latex paint over oil-based paint, which is a guaranteed bubble-fest and should be avoided at all costs. And a word about rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, foam rollers- especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man, even over regular high quality wool or polyester rollers. We painted the table above with a paint brush, not a roller. No matter what you use, be sure to wait until the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry before applying a second coat (each coat should be applied super lightly and evenly – aim for the thickness of an eggshell or a leaf of paper) which will dramatically cut down on any visible brush strokes or roller marks for a smooth, gorgeous finish. Three or even four super thin coats are far better than one or two thick and drippy ones.
Step 4- This step is optional, but we strongly recommend brushing on two thin coats of water-based poly for wipe-able protection that really goes the extra mile (and a glossy sheen that looks oh-so-luxe). The only brand that we’ve ever used with unmatched success is Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” so that’s our recommendation. Of course we added the poly to our white table above, and we even poly’d the chairs since they need to be just as easy to wipe down due to their proximity to food whenever we dine in the sunroom. Thin is definitely the operative word, and again you’ll want to be sure to let the first coat thoroughly dry before going in for the second.
Step 5- Wait at least a full 48 hours to place objects on your newly painted piece to avoid dents or divots in your finish. This might take some willpower because you’re dying to sit on/eat on your brand new piece, but it’s worth the wait. Promise.
Easy, right? There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not the exact tone or shade that you’d like. So from painting an old side table a handsome glossy black or a scratched up wooden chair a cheerful red tone, it’s definitely a project you can confidently take on in an afternoon. Go forth and paint something!
*Oh and it bears noting that if your furniture item is anything other than solid wood or veneered wood (laminate, melamine, etc) you should definitely visit your local hardware store and ask the paint pro there what they recommend for that surface. There are some great oil-based primers and enamel paints out there, so it might be possible to get a semi-durable finish (although none as long-lasting as solid wood and veneered wood paint jobs). The key is really roughing up the surface so it’s less glossy and then priming and painting with the best stuff they have (usually oil or enamel based). Oh and don’t forget to let everything dry for a while so things can cure up and get super durable for the long haul. Good luck!
Psssst- In the market for a handy dandy cabinet painting tutorial? Look no further.
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Comments
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any tips for selecting a poly? I used supposedly clear poly over a white bench on our porch and it left it with a slightly amber tinge. I’d like to find a truely clear poly to use over white paint, which looks like worked for you on your table and chairs.
Hey D-ra,
We have heard about the yellowing effect of certain polyurethanes, but the key is to go with a water-based one. Oil-based poly has a lot more of that yellow tinge (in fact, it’s nearly impossible to find a clear oil-based one due to the nature of what it does), but a water-based poly should be a lot less yellow in tone. Our table and chairs look 100% white (not an ounce of yellow to be seen) and we used Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss.” Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Im confused about the oil based primer….. Why didn’t you use a water based primer? I thought mixing oil based and water based would result in a “bubbling” of the paint. Obviously, I thought wrong, because your table looks fantastic!
Kristen- We don’t know of a poly that isn’t shiny, but for a matte look you can just skip this optional step and go with flat latex paint for a much less glossy finish. It will still be durable, it just won’t be as easy to wipe down with water and might absorb a bit more stains and spills than anything coated in poly would. It’s really a great option for any furniture not being used for eating like a bedroom night table or a desk chair, etc. Hope it helps!
Carmil- In our experience, there’s a definite order to be considered when applying paint, primer and poly. As long as you go for the oil-based primer before the water-based latex paint and water-based poly, everything is hunky-dorey. Latex paint and water-based poly will absolutely adhere to oil-based primer with ease and look fantastic. And it gives you added protection against stains since water-based primer is not nearly as good at blocking seepage. You may have issues with bubbling if you follow a coat of water-based latex paint with oil-based polyurethane. It seems that oil-based primer can easily be followed with latex paint, but latex paint shouldn’t be followed by oil-based poly. Does that make sense? In many cases water-based primer will totally do the trick (and make for a much easier clean-up… that oil stuff is sticky) but we actually have used water-based primer for certain projects and the stains and wood sap still bleed through and ruin our finish (super annoying!) so we follow the whole it’s-better-to-be-safe-than-sorry philosophy. Hopefully that explains our method!
xo,
Sherry
Perfect timing! On my way home yesterday someone had put a perfectly good end table out on the curb. I am not one to pass up a good piece of furniture, so I picked it up! I hope to paint it soon.
Love it! I just picked up supplies last night to paint the desk that’s on my blog. We discussed back and forth the need to prime and I didn’t end up buying any. The thought was that the desk is already painted white, I’m going to be doing minimal sanding in a few areas, so the priming could be skipped over direct to painting a satin black. What is your advice for priming when you’re painting over existing paint?
hmmm…mine is my desk, which I painted black. The little rubber feet on my laptop leave marks on the painted surface. I may just try to find a glass top for it…
Hey Amanda,
Whether a piece is painted or not, I would definitely still do a coat of primer. In fact, I think you’ll have more problems with paint adhesion and possible peeling than you would painting raw wood (which absorbs paint a lot better than an already painted surface). People look at it as an extra step, but it’s seriously a short cut when you think about how paint over an already painted surface can crack, chip, or peel a lot more easily. Primer is like a layer of sticky stuff to ensure proper adhesion for a paint job that lasts decades and not just a few months. And the step you could probably skip instead of the primer is the sanding since a white painted desk probably isn’t varnished or glossy so the primer should do the job better than sandpaper. Hope it helps! Happy painting!
Oh and Kristin, a piece of glass or even plexiglass atop your desk will definitely nip those rubber feet marks in the bud. Great idea! A good way to avoid those marks in the future is to paint in very thin layers and be sure that each one dries thoroughly before moving on to the next coat. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
I beleive that poly’s come in different finishes, gloss, matte, etc. At least the spray one’s I use when crafting do.
Kristen- I usually use Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish if a client wants no sheen, it is waterbased and does not yellow. It is kind of thick, so sometimes I thin it with a little bit of water (just a little though) and do maybe 3 coats instead of 2, I don’t like seeing those brush strokes. Although I prefer the Minwax Satin Polyacrylic, it really does have a pretty low sheen.
Sherry, I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your blog. My husband and I rehab houses for a living and the design process is my favorite part. And you guys do such great things!
Love the table and chairs to death! And wish I had that little nook overlooking the yard. I’d never get out of the chair.
Aw shucks, Bridgett. You’re making us blush. Thanks so much for the kind words! You may be envious of our little sunroom eating area, but we’re jealous that you rehab houses for a living. What fun! Feel free to send us any and all before and after pics. We eat that stuff for breakfast.
xo,
Sherry
Thanks so much for the tip! I’m going to sandpaper a bit, with a 100 grain, just becuase there are a few rough spots, but then I’ll definately be oil-based priming before painting. I appreciate your advice.
Does anyone have any suggestions for this…
The last person that painted the roll top let the paint glob into the crevices of the roll down door. So, there’s a bunch of “extra” paint sitting in those crevices and I’d like to get rid of that dry, old paint, before painting again. But, I don’t want to damage the wood by scraping or picking at it too much. Is there any suggestion? I don’t think I can fit sandpaper in the small crevices either…
Everyone is so helpful! I’m learning lots from your questions and Sherry’s answers!
Do y’all think it is necessary to sand and apply primer before painting trim and moulding (if it has already been painted)?
Thanks!!
Good question Elizabeth! We actually paint right over any painted molding, baseboards and window trim with white semi-gloss latex paint unless it’s super globby or peely in which case we sand it for a while and then prime and paint it (since sanding down to the original wood and just painting it would probably result in sap or stain bleeding through the paint). Most trim looks a lot fresher with a new coat of white semi-gloss, and since it’s not usually a place that gets high traffic (like the tops of a desk or the seat of a chair) it seems to do just fine without the the sanding and the primer in most instances. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Learn something new every day… I had always thought that water-based latex paints could not be used over an oil-based primer.
Clearly NOT the case, because look how sharp your table turned out!
This is SO helpful- thanks so much! I have definately found a lot in thrift stores that I want to repaint but haven’t found such nice clear directions anywhere on the web- until now! Do you think I could follow these same steps for a wicker chair that needs repainting? (it has flaky white paint on it now) Thanks again!
Thanks Sherry! I think we may need to do a bit of sanding on our bathroom trim before repainting, but we definitely won’t be going down to the wood.
Hey Christina,
I think due to the nooks and crannies found in a wicker chair, your best bet is to lightly sand all the cracked paint away with 100 grit sandpaper and then use spray primer and spray paint to refinish it (which will go on lighter than with with a roller or paintbrush). You can then follow with a coat or two of spray poly if you’d like even more durability. Just remember to spray using long even strokes and don’t get too close to the chair when you’re applying the primer, paint and poly since you don’t want drips and pools of paint between the woven wicker material. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Makes me wonder if it would be best to spray prime and spray paint the roll top portion of my desk- to avoid gooping up in the crevices? Wonder if I can get that roll top out of the track to do that though….
Hey Amanda,
You could also just use plastic bags (or a big plastic tarp from Lowe’s for like $2) to shield any parts of the desk that you don’t want to spray and keep the roll top of the desk exposed. The only issue I see with spraying part of the desk and painting another part is that you’d want your spray paint and your paint to match perfectly so it doesn’t look mismatched. This usually means you have to get someone like Benjamin Moore to pour some paint into a spray can for ya so you can use the same paint for both areas of the desk. I also think that a paint brush would work just fine on the roll top so if the whole custom spray paint thing sounds too complicated just stick with a paintbrush (since the bristles can easily get into those crevices, as long as you keep from applying too much paint you’ll be just fine). Wicker and anything meshy us usually hard to do with a brush, but regular grooves and crannies in wooden pieces are still easy enough to navigate with a brush most of the time. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Oh yes, didn’t think about the color difference between the rest of the desk and the top- I should have considering how long I pondered the “many facets of black” last night in the paint aisle at Home Depot- sheesh! I just wanted normal black and there’s about 10 variations, I swear!
I’ll give it a go at getting the old stuff out of the crevices and using a brush… sounds like a good method to attempt first.
Thanks!
Great tutorial! And I must say, PERFECT timing! I just bought a dresser on craigslist that is painted an ungodly black/red/gold glitter color (for only $15!!) that I can’t wait to paint a crisp white. It’s going to look great thanks to your advice! LOVE LOVE LOVE your website!
Interesting, I’ve painted quite a few things, but always used the water-based primers (thinking, apparently incorrectly(!), that was the only option unless you wanted to paint with oil-based paint as well). I wonder if the oil-based stuff would “stick” better? I’ve painted a couple pieces of that cheapo veneered MDF type furniture, and after a while the paint starts to chip off when I prime with water-based stuff. I’ll definitely keep this in mind to try out next time. Thanks for the tip!! :)
I was inspired this morning by this post so I went out and bought supplies and I just finished painting our computer cabinet black. I followed your instructions and used an oil based primer and two coats of semi-gloss latex paint. Here’s the problem…. While painting with a foam roller, the paint rolled on with thousand of little bubbles. Now it feels quite rough and you can see all the brush stokes. Any suggestions on what to do now? I’m really frustrated!
Also, the color I went with (BM Black) has strange gray/blue undertone. I’m hoping it will look better in the morning. Any tips for picking out a pure black color?
Hey Jane,
Eeeks! It was the foam roller. I’ve actually never used those things but I called my Benjamin Moore buddy and got her take on it and she definitely thinks foam rollers create those bubbles while brushes and regular rollers ensure a more even coat (she again reiterated that it had nothing to do with latex paint over oli-based primer). I’ll have to add the no foam roller disclaimer to my painting tutorial! So sorry for your frustrating bubble fight. We actually used a brush for all the furniture that we’ve painted thus far (the table above, the other white pedestal table in the den, the light green bookcase) so if you’re looking for the most foolproof method I’d definitely go with a brush. And the only caution would be that you should use a brand new brush to apply the latex paint (using an old brush for the primer is ok, but you want the paint to go on smooth and clean). You also want to allow each coat of primer and paint to thoroughly dry before going on to the next coat- which will really do wonders when it comes to making any brush strokes less visible.
As for the bubble situation you’re currently dealing with, my BM buddy suggested waiting for the last coat of latex that you applied to dry completely and lightly sanding the surface to smooth the bubbled texture. Then try using a brush to add one more coat of black paint which should go on as smooth as a baby’s butt (you might need a second coat depending on how deep you sand, but it should look great when you’re done). But please know that I’m frustrated for you, and I’m crossing my fingers that you end up with a fabulous piece that works perfectly in your space. Even we have paint snafus (like the aforementioned time we primed, painted and polyurethaned just to have stains come through since we didn’t use an oil-based primer so we actually had to start over from square one. I totally feel your pain! And at least you’re just redoing the last step and no going back to that nasty sticky primer! Good luck…
xo,
Sherry
My $0.02 – I never seem to have problems using a roller when painting furniture, but I only do it if I’m using flat paint, not any kind of enamel or gloss.
We painted a ping-pong table with flat paint as well as washed a dresser with it. Of course, otherwise I don’t know why anyone would use flat on furniture. :)
this is timely…. thanks! I just picked up a free solid wood stand alone jelly cupboard for my kitchen and am looking to paint it white to match – I do love the deals I find on freecycle.org, and this will help me do the trick!
Thank you so much for this! I’m getting a coffee table back from a friend (long story) and there’s some chips in the smooth melamine paint on the top (I think it’s melamine – it’s very thick). I was wondering how exactly to go about it due to my furniture painting debacles in the past – I will certainly have this handy when I go to do it!
This is such perfect timing. My sister-in-law gave us her old (like 25 years old) dresser and nightstand. It is in perfect condition, but the finish – orange 1980′s knotty pine – leaves little to be desired. I have the nightstand hardware off, and downstairs just waiting for me to go to Home Depot for supplies. I will be starting on Monday – will definitely send you some before and after shots.
One question though…I had planned on getting a piece of glass cut for the top of both pieces (which someone else also mentioned above) – any reason to polly? Also, what is best – flat, semi, etc…
Thanks so much!
Kelly
Hey Kelly,
The paint finish is up to you although we prefer semi-gloss for more wipe-able protection and a crisp, sleek shine. As for whether you should also poly if you’re using a piece of glass on the top of the table, it’s totally your call. It’s an optional step to give your piece a bit more of that spill-proof shine and added durability so if you think the top is the only part of the piece that will get wear and tear, you might not need it. But if it’s in a place where you’ll lean shoes, bags, and other items against it, you might want the added poly protection. Happy painting!
xo,
Sherry
This is a great step-by-step tutorial. I’ve painted a lot of furniture recently but I’ve used a paint sprayer (like the kind you’d use to paint your house, but littler). As long as I don’t get too close, it seems to create a super-smooth, factory-like sheen on all of my pieces and it’s a lot quicker!
One question though, can I use an oil-based primer with a paint sprayer and then clean it out and use the same sprayer for the latex paint?
I’ve been mostly painting white stuff white but I am hoping to paint a coffee and end table set that are currently a rusty orangey brown color. I plan to lightly sand first but am not sure whether to use my sprayer this time or not. What do you think? Any experience using sprayers with oil and then latex paint?
Hey Becky,
I think the safest way to go is to use a brush to apply a thin coat of the oil-based primer and then use the sprayer to apply the latex paint in thin even layers. That way you won’t have to worry about the oil-based paint in the sprayer reacting with the latex paint afterwords, and you’ll still get that factory-like, super-smooth sheen. Happy painting! And feel free to send us before and after pics!
xo,
Sherry
I recently acquired an old hutch and followed ALL of your instructions to the T. I painted it white. Now, after applying my water-based poly, there is a significant yellow tinge and my bright white summer hutch now looks dirty. I am concerned. Is there anything I can do to fix it? And if not, how can I avoid this is the future?
Thanks….
Hey Rebecca,
I have three thoughts about the yellow tinge:
1. You’re sure it was water-based poly and not oil-based, right? Oil-based has quite a yellow tinge while most water-based versions are clear and untinted- like thick water.
2. Perhaps the brand or quality of the oil-based poly makes a difference and since I always use the same kind I haven’t experienced the tinting you describe? I swear by Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss” so perhaps you picked up one that wasn’t “clear” and had more of an “antique glaze” finish?
3. Thickness is key for polyurethane application. Two very thin coats help to add shine without changing the color of the paint at all, so anything that was applied too thickly would muddy up the finish and diminish that super sleek white tone.
Is there any possibility that the three things I outlined above could be the culprit? As for fixing the painted piece, one thin coat of primer and another two coats of paint will get you back to glossy white. I know it’s a lot of work to essentially start over, but we had to do it once when we skipped the oil-based primer step (since we experienced some annoying stain-bleeding without it) so although it’s a pain, the perfect glossy white finish is worth the trouble.
If you’d like to skip the poly step (it is optional), you can always just use white semi-gloss or gloss latex paint and just let that dry a few days and you’re good to go. If you’d still like the protection of poly, grabbing the one I recommend (Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish in “Clear Gloss”) and applying two thin even coats (I use a brush for super thin application as opposed to a goopier roller) should certainly do the trick. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Thank you for your info, I just made a cool retro boomerang table out of MDF. I did use a water primer then a Latex paint (2 coats). I want to top it off with minwax polycrylic clear gloss. I was worried of this last step because I put so much work into this….Thanks again!
Hey Heidi,
As long as you use two thin coats of Polycrylic applied with a paint bursh (avoid a bubble-inducing foam roller at all costs!) you should be left with a smooth and unfirm finish that lasts and lasts!
xo,
Sherry
can someone help me? i painted my sons bed with a disney primer (i think it’s water based but might be oil based cuz i couldn’t wash it off of anything including my hands) and glidden brand water based high gloss paint, i was told it is very low VOC. i applied a thin first layer on the primer and had to do two more coats to look nice. the pieces were drying for about 40 hours when i took them in the room, now it passed even 50 hours but the paint feels kinda sticky…you won’t get paint on your hands or anything, it just feels weird…i was told this paint dries very fast….now i never worked with high gloss but semi gloss and it always dried like in an hour…any suggestions what’s happening.
is it ok for my kid to sleep in the room now, i mean this doesn’t produce toxins when it smells like oil based paint..especially after two days?
please help
Hey Szilvia,
I have no idea what the paint is still tacky 50 hours later! Do you have good ventilation in there (it’s not hot and humid in there is it? sometimes that can dramatically effect drying time). Does anyone else have any ideas or helpful info? I do know that regular Glidden paint is low VOC but it’s not no VOC by any means, so perhaps keeping your child out of the room a few more days and opening some windows/getting some fans going is the way to go. Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
Any tips for painting cheap plastic fake wood veneer? I have an entertainment center I got for free on the side of the road and reinforced (my dad did that part, actually) so it’s very nice and sturdy, but I want to paint it white to match my envisioned new living room. Can I just go oil-based primer followed by water-based paint, or is there something else necessary to help stick to the fake veneer?
Yup, I’d go oil-based primer followed by two coats of latex semi-gloss paint so it’s easy to wipe down. Veneer can definitely be tricky, but that’s your best bet for something that looks great in the short term (but might scratch a bit in the long haul). Good luck!
xo,
Sherry
Love all the info, guess the pros think all this stuff is elementary but I don’t have any experience at all. What I need to know is, what do I do with an old dining table that I bought already refinished and when I got it home you could see brush marks in the sealer on the top. Can I just sand it back a little and add more sealer to smooth it out or is there a danger of using the wrong type (oil-based or water) and having it turn out worse than it is. It’s gorgeous except for that. Thanks for listening!
Hey Barbara,
You definitely have the right idea. Sanding down the sealer will eliminate those brush marks and then you can re-poly the piece more carefully for an even finish. You might want to do a little test in a small area to see if water-based poly will do the trick, but we’re pretty sure that’s what was used since oil-based usually has a very yellow tinge (which makes it less popular). A little test swatch should help you determine whether water-based poly is right for you (if it doesn’t crack or peel or bubble as it dries, you’re good to go). Then you can apply two very thin coats with a brush for a smooth, glossy finished product. Hope it helps! Good luck…
xoxo,
Sherry
I figured I’d post a comment about my yucky (but uber-useful) bookshelves from when we were very poor and needed storage. When I read the comments though, I see that Meredith had the same question!
They are the plastic wood veneer as well. I’m a bit worried about painting them because they will likely be used to store books, and I’ve had trouble before with paperbacks kind of sticking to the paint on other shelves I’ve painted. Also, these are probably going to be in the kids’ playroom, so they may also have toys and/or bins, and will probably be not so gently handled. Is the scratching a big deal? Will it look horrible in a year?
Last…I’ve thought about other things beside paint, at least in part. Could I wallpaper/decoupage the backs of it?
Hey Cecily,
Good idea with the wallpaper! Maybe you could paint the sides and the front and wallpaper the base of each shelf along with the back so anywhere that the books will rest won’t stick in super humid weather (which does tend to happen). Hope it helps!
xo,
Sherry
I loved reading this post, and find it so very helpful. I just bought an antique dresser from Salvation Army, and I’m in the process of sanding it down. There are some decorative elements and grooves–would you have any suggestions for getting in those tiny spaces to sand, or does it matter? I’m so excited about this project. Thanks for the advice!–great website, too!
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Great play-by-play! Thanks!